Page 18 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

TASK 3: Drafting of women’s bodice block
Measurements

size-8
Round bust – 93 cms
Round waist -72cms
Bodice length – 47.5cms
Apex point – 27.5cms

Drafting steps
1 Construct the block ABCD, AB is the length of bodice + 2 cm & AC is ½ Round Bust+2.5 cm.
2 Divide the block into 6 equal division along AC. Mark them XYZ & XY.
3 Now divide the length into half at EF. GH divides AE FC into half & I J divides AG HC into half and KL divides
AIJC into half.
4 Mark AZZ B as BACK & CZZ D as FRONT.
5 Since the front bodice requires extra provision. The front should be made bigger than back. Therefore shift the
side seam line zz1=1 cm towards the back.
Fig 1

6 Neckline; from x go in 1 cm towards AE from X 1CM towards C. This is the highest shoulder point. Construct
two necklines from X to K for back & X to H for front.
7 Shoulder; DRAW a straight line for shoulder from X passing through Y and extended by 2.5 cm from Y1 to k1.
Similarly from shoulder drop is made from X passing through Y1-E extended by 2.5 from Y1 to L1.

8 Armhole; From G measure 1.5 cm towards H1 mark it G1. From H measure 0.5 cm towards G mark it H1.
Starting from the lowest shoulder point k1. Mark a smooth curve passing through G1& touching O. Repeat the
same for other armhole.
9 Side seam; Locate the bust from the highest shoulder point. Draw a line through the block for bust level. Mark
2.5 cm on each side of ZZ1 line at the respective waist level B1 D1. Shape for waist at the side seam from bust
level to B1 & bust level to D1.
At the bust level locate the bust point P 1cm a way from line X & X (1) towards Y drop a perpendicular line on
waist line at Q.
PQ is the dart line for the waist dart starting from the armpit point O mark R
OR=10 cm, join RP in a straight line for side seam dart line mark 1 cm above & below R the dart line complete
the dart legs to end the dart 2-5 cm away from the point P for waist dart mark 2 cm on eiher side of waist dart line
complete the dart to an end 1 cm away from the 6ust point .The back waist dart is constructed on the division line
X X(1), it is 2 cm wide & ends at the bust level.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 1 CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 1