Page 163 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

3 Drafting the Pattern
• For a fitted bodice with a flared peplum:
- Draft a basic bodice pattern with darts at the bust for shaping.
- Decide on the length and fullness of the peplum. You can create a flared peplum by gradually widening the
pattern from the waist down.
- Add seam allowances to all edges.
• For a blouse with gathers or pleats:
- Draft a basic bodice pattern without darts.
- Determine the desired fullness at the neckline. You can achieve this by adding extra width to the front
bodice pattern or by incorporating gathers or pleats.
- Add seam allowances to all edges.
• For a boxy crop top with gathers at the hem:
- Draft a basic rectangular pattern for the bodice, with the width matching the bust measurement plus ease
and the length based on the desired crop top length.
- Decide on the amount of fullness you want at the hem. You can achieve this by adding extra width to the
bottom edge of the pattern and incorporating gathers.
- Add seam allowances to all edges.
Once you have drafted the patterns, you can cut them out from muslin or another inexpensive fabric to create
mock-ups and make any necessary adjustments before cutting into your final fabric. Be sure to label each
pattern piece and indicate any notches, grainlines, or other important markings. Additionally, consider adding
closures such as zippers, buttons, or snaps as needed for the final garments.
Creating patterns for a designer girl’s skirt and top with varying fullness at different areas involves a mix of
creativity, precision, and understanding of garment construction. Below, I’ll outline the process for designing
and developing patterns for both the skirt and the top separately.
Skirt Pattern
Materials Needed:
- Pattern paper or drafting paper
- Measuring tape
- Ruler
- Pencil
- Scissors
- Fabric
Steps:
1 Take Measurements:
- Waist circumference
- Desired length of the skirt
- Hip circumference (if necessary)
- Desired fullness at different areas (e.g., waist, hips, hem)
2 Drafting the Skirt Block:
- Start with a basic skirt block pattern. This will be a simple A-line or straight skirt pattern.
- Draft the front and back skirt blocks separately based on the measurements taken. Ensure to include seam
allowances.
- For fullness, decide which areas you want to add volume. Typically, this could be at the waist, hips, or hem.
3 Adding Fullness:
- To add fullness at the waist, you can create gathers or pleats.
- At the hips, you might add flares or gores to the skirt panels.
- For a fuller hem, you can add a ruffle or godets.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 44