Page 227 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

EXERCISE 50 : As pegged / godet/ tiers/gored/ yokes etc

Objectives

At the end of this exercise you shall be able to:
• take the measurement, draft the skirt block
• waist to hip measurement.

Requirements

Tools/Materials
• Measuring tape, pencil, eraser, seissors, L-scale ruler

Job Sequence

Making a draped peg skirt – construction

1 Mark the fabric very clearly. I used three colors of basting thread for
a the waist line,
b the upper part of a pleat or fold and
c the lower part of the pleat or fold.

Also the CF and CB and suggested positions.
2 Separate the cloth and cut open the marking threads carefully. If you are making the Grey skirt with two pieces
of fabric then the CF is on the bias. Take care not to stretch this. I stitched the seam very cautiously and then
carefully pressed open without pulling.
3 If, conversely, you have created the Navy version with the CB on the cross then as soon as you have carefully
separated the pieces at CB, apply some stabilizing fusible interfacing of an appropriate weight, at least the
length of the zip and around 2″ wide.
4 If you are planning to use underling, now is the time to attach it to the piece, basting it to the fashion fabric
along the stitching lines.
5 Now pin in the pleats, bringing the top of the pleat to the marking of where it will lie. Once the whole skirt is
pinned along the waistline (the back seam is still open) try it on the stand to ensure the pleating works in a
pleasing way. Also check the waist measurement with your tape measure to ensure it will fit you.
6 Check the circumference of your hem to ensure your stride is not overly affected.
7 Make up the lining, but leave CB open for zip insertion.

8 Pin the lining together with your skirt, taking care with the bias CF seam (gray skirt), and pin to the skirt, wrong
sides together at both sides of the CB.
9 Pleat the lining along the waistline seam. It doesn’t have to be the same arrangement as the skirt, but should
be balanced.
10 Baste along the waistline including the underlining, lining and fashion fabric
11 Prepare the waist band.
12 Sew the waistband neatly and accurately to the waistband, still leaving open the CB seam.

13 Insert an invisible or regular zip at the CB bringing it through the waist band.

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