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FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS




           6  Kimono Sleeve
              •  Kimono sleeves are mostly used in garments where more comfort is needed. It is used mostly for sportswear,
                 kids wear, dance costume and ladies tops. In kimono sleeve there is no seam either at the armhole or in the
                 shoulder. (Fig 6)
           7  Magyar Sleeve

              •  Magyar sleeve is also like kimono sleeve where lower arm circumference is drawn perpendicular to the
                 bodice pattern and attached at the edge of the pattern (Fig 7)

              Fig 6                                           Fig 7














           8  Full Sleeve

              •  A full sleeve pattern is an extension of the basic sleeve pattern but the length of the sleeve is extended
                 till the wrist. Full sleeves are used mostly in women’s wear, kurtas and men’s shirt.
           Cuff
           A cuff is a sleeve finish given at the sleeve edge. A cuff can be straight, gathered or pleated according to the
           design of the garment.
           1  Cuff with Plackets
           Cuff with placket is generally attached to a long sleeve with a placket opening made at the sleeve edge. Thus cuff
           comes tight around the wrist, with a placket. There are three types of plackets which are commonly used.
           •  Faced placket – The edges of the placket meet at the opening.
           •  Continuous bound placket – It is finished with a single fabric strip to create a narrow lap.
           •  Tailored or shirt placket – It is finished with two separate pieces to create a wider lap.
           2  Cuffs without Plackets
           Cuffs without plackets have no openings and hence the sleeve openings are loose for the hands to come out
           easily. There are three basic types of cuffs without plackets.
           •  Straight band Cuff – It is a simple cuff with a straight band of fabric attached at the bottom of the sleeve.
           •  Straight turn back Cuff – It is made by turning up the hem of the sleeve. Sometimes, a separate extension
              piece is added at the bottom of the sleeve and turned.
           •  Shaped turn- back Cuff – This cuff is first constructed separately with a shape and then the same is stitched
              to the edge of the sleeve with a facing.

            Yokes

           Yoke is one segment of the garment that can be constructed on the garment. It is used to hold the gathers. For
           decorative purpose, it is sewn at shoulder, upper and lower part of the hip. Yokes can be constructed with different
           structures, variations like ‘V’ shape, oval shape or with different colour according to the taste and need of person.
           Types of Yokes

           Yokes are classified based upon the pattern made and decorations as plain or basic yoke and decorative yoke.






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                               CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 9 - 11
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