Page 205 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Feed mechanism

Objectives: At the end of this lesson, you shall be able to explain
• types of feed mechanism.

Feed mechanism is the basic motion of needles, loopers and bobbins.The material being sewn must move so that
each cycle of needle motion involves a different part of the material.
Functions:

• To advance the fabric in the feeding zone of the sewing machine.
• To decide the length of individual stitch.
• To avoid different sewing faults.
Types:
1 Drop feed mechanism.
2 Differential bottom feed mechanism.
3 Adjustable top feed mechanism.
4 Needle feed mechanism.
5 Unison feed mechanism.
6 Puller feed m mechanism.
1 Drop Feed Mechanism (Fig 1)
• This is simplest feed system of sewing machine.
• It is also known as regular feed.
Main components of drop feed mechanism are:
a Throat plate
b Feed dog
c Presser foot

Fig 1

Problems of Drop Feed:

• Two plies of fabric cannot move forward at the same speed. As a result, lower ply is more fed than upper
ply. This is called ply shifting/differential feeding pucker/feeding pucker. Sometimes roping is occurred during
making of hem for ply shifting.

• It pitches of stitch and feeding dog are same then fabric may be damaged due to repeating contact of feed
dog teeth and fabric at the same place.

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design Technology - Lesson 25