Page 208 - CTS - Sewing Technology - TP - Volume - 2-0

SEWING TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Universal needles
This type of needle is the most commonly used in sewing machines. They have a slightly rounded tip, and sew
well with woven fabrics, cotton, silk, and some knit fabrics.

Ball point needles
A ball point needle is slightly more rounded than a universal needle. They push between the fabric fibres, and
ideal to use with knit and stretch fabrics such as rib knots, cotton knits and fleece.

Stretch needles
Stretch needles also have a ball point tip, however they have a distinctive eye and scarf for stretchy fabrics that
are hard to sew. Material such as Lycra, spandex, and elastic should be used with this needle for the best results.
Sharp needles

Sharp needles are perfect for woven fabrics as they tend not to pucker and produce an even stitch. They also
work well with several layers of the right fabric type due to its strong shaft. It is not recommend using this type of
needle with knit fabrics as they can cause missed stitches.
Quilting needles
The reinforced shaft on a quilting needles means they can be easily used with a few layers of fabric and wadding.
Their shortness in length gives you the opportunity to achieve a quick and even stitch, especially when sewing
with cotton fibres.
Embroidery needles

Designed with a wider eye, embroidery needles accommodate thicker threads such as polyester or cotton. They
create intricate designs at a fast pace, without snagging the fabric of breaking the needle.
Leather needles

A leather needle is shaped like a spear to cut through the leather whilst forming the stitch. They are sometimes
referred to as a chisel point needle and should only be used with genuine leather and suede. Better avoid using
this type of needle for imitation leather or suede as their fibres are quite different to the real deal.

Jeans needles
As the name suggests, this needle is designed for working with denim. A jean needle has a sharp point and
stronger shank to push through the fabric and prevent the needle from breaking. They are also suitable for other
dense fabrics such as heavy twill, canvas and dense linens.
Top stitch needles
A top stitch needle has a larger eye and deeper groove, which makes it perfect to use with heavier topstitching
thread. It will pierce through many different layers of fabrics and give a distinctive finish.
Sewing machine needle size guide

American size European size Fabric weight Fabric types
8 60 Very fine Fine silk, Chiffon, Organza, Voile, Fine
9 65 lace
10 70
11 75 Light-weight Cotton voile, Silk, Synthetics, Spandex
12 80 and lycra
Medium weight Quilting fabrics, Cotton, Velvet, Fine
14 90 corduroy. Linen, muslin, jersey, tericot,
knits, light wool, sweatshirt knit, fleece
Heavy weight Denim, corduroy, canvas, duck, suiting
16 100
leather
Very heavy Heavy denim, heavy canvas, uphoistery
18 110
fabric, faux fur
20 120 Very, very heavy Extra heavy fabrics

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CITS : Apparel - Sewing Technology - Exercise 34