Page 17 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Three different types of pattern are used by designers when drafting patterns.
i The block pattern is the basic pattern that is used as a basis for all adaptations. It is traced or ‘wheeled’ onto
pattern paper to produce the working pattern.

ii The working pattern is used for making out the basic style lines and design features (e.g. pockets, collars,
and buttonhole placings). Pattern sections are traced off and may be further adapted. Complicated styles may
need a number of trials at this stage.
iii The final pattern is the pattern from which the garment will be cut. It must be clearly marked with all the
information required for making up the garment.
When beginning an adaptation, two main decisions must be taken

• Selecting the correct block for the design; for example: ‘form’ or ‘flat’ block & inset sleeve or kimono block.
• The length of the design: lengthening or shortening the block.
ii Draping
Draping is another way of pattern making.

A two dimensional piece of fabric is draped around a form or figure conforming to its shape, creating a three
dimensional fabric pattern. This muslin pattern is transferred to paper to be used for corrections & a final pattern.
Draping is a technique used to make a 3-dimensional dress pattern with the aid of a dress form figure by pinning
and placing fabric against the form to create a garment. Typically designers use muslin, which is cost-efficient
and offered in a variety of weights.
The techniques for draping fabric necessitate an understanding of the fabric’s characteristics. Designers and
drapers must be able to distinguish between different fabrics to select the most suitable ones for achieving the
desired flow and lines in each design.
Draping of Basic Block

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 1 - 5