Page 22 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

6 Trimming:
The last step is common across various designing techniques. Here, trim off any excess fabrics that may remain
after it is finished with draping. The raw edges of the draping should always be hidden neatly in the seams, so that
it looks perfect and clean. It is required to add seam allowance and neatly pinned.
After finishing the draping, take out the pinned fabric from the body form. Open the fabric, use French curve to
reshape of neckline and armhole, can use ruler for the straight lines. After that place the fabric in the drafting
paper, by using the tracing wheel and trace the draping fabric into drafting paper.
This is the technique making the Pattern from the Fabric.

Concepts of Grading

Concept of Pattern grading: It is a technique used to reproduce a pattern in other sizes. It is done using a size
specification sheet. Grading does not create a new shape, it increases or decreases the size of the original shape
of the garment.

The grading technique can be a manual pattern grading process or computer grading using special computer
aided design software.
Pattern grading is a technique used to increase or decrease the size of a garment pattern according to the
measurements in a given size chart. Pattern grading is the drafting process of enlarging or diminishing a style
pattern into patterns for other sizes. The function of grading is to see that this is accomplished with proper fit for
the other size without changing the style sense of the original model.
This can be done manually or digitally using computerized pattern making software. These increments are referred
to as garment grading rules. For example, every clothing brand has own size chart and different grading rules.
Through pattern grading, can maintain the essence of the garment without altering the shape, fit, dimensions,
design, or the balance of garment. With the use of pattern grading, it is possible to take one design and create
alternate dimensions as the size of the dress changes. This allows designers and sewers of apparel to create one
middle size, and then grade up or down as necessary.
Grading Terminology:

• Grade – The ‘grade’ of a pattern is the incremental increase or decrease in a pattern size at a given cardinal
point. For example; a large majority of commercial patterns will have a 2″ grade. This means that there is a 2″
difference between sizes.
• Grading – The process of increasing or decreasing the dimensions of a base pattern style.
• Cardinal Points – The points on a pattern where it either increases or decreases. E.g.: Neck, shoulder, armhole,
length, girth etc.

7

CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 1 - 5