Page 24 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

1 Manual pattern grading or two dimensional grading:
The desired range of sizes is created, one by one, using a pattern template. Marks are made around the master
pattern at the appropriate distances and the marks the later joined up to form the enlarge pattern.
There are two basic methods of pattern grading:
• Cut and Spread:
Cut and Spread grading method are starts by the use of tracing and marking techniques from the original master
pattern to a white paper. Ensure that all the marking lines like grain line, darts are visible here. In this method
original patterns are cut vertically into 3 parts and spread the cutting pieces by a specific amount to grade up.
Then overlap them to grade down. To do this process, only scissors, a pencil, measurement tape, and a ruler are
required.

Pattern Shifting: Pattern shifting is another process of pattern grading. When pattern maker or fashion designer
want to increase or decrease the overall dimensions of a pattern to get different sizes is called pattern shifting.
To make the pattern larger, transfer the original pattern onto another sheet of paper. To make it smaller, they will
have to trim the edges to the desired dimensions. It is done by moving the master pattern a certain measured
distance up and down and left and right using a special designed ruler. To get the same result as the cut and
spread method designer redraw the outlines.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 1 - 5