Page 25 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Computer-aided pattern grading or three dimensional grading:
Computer grading (CAD) is the fastest pattern grading techniques., It is only used by larger fashion or apparel
manufacturers for their production process. This method is used to get more accurate, precise, detailed patterns
in a short time. Computer grading is the most recent development in grading technology. It is also the fastest
method. Computer grading, however, is expensive and usually only large manufacturers can afford it.

Concepts of Stitching

Concept of Stitching: Stitching is the process whereby fabric is constructed into a finished product by means of
different sewing techniques. The stitching stage holds extreme significance to ensure that the product takes its
shape according to requirements. In itself a highly specialized field, stitching requires care and precision.

Stitch Forming Devices
The basic principle of all machine sewing depends on consistent loop formation. During sewing the needle
descends through the fabric to the bottom of its stroke and as the needle rises a loop of sewing thread is formed
in the scarf of the needle. This loop of sewing thread is picked up by one of two stitch forming devices namely
the hook or the looper. A third stitch forming device known as a spreader is used in some stitch types to carry the
sewing thread from one stitch forming device to another.
The sewing machine hook is it rotary or oscillating shuttle interlocks the needle thread with the bobbin thread. A
looper, used in chain stitch formations, interloops the thread that it carries with another thread.
Steps of Stitch Formation
There are five basic steps to the formation of all stitch types. They are:
1 Penetration – the needle penetrates the fabric carrying the needle thread
2 Loop formation – a loop of sewing thread is formed in the scarf of the needle as the needle begins to rise from
the bottom of its stroke
3 Conformation – this is where the threads are arranged above, below or around the material being sewn
4 Cast off – is where the needle thread loop is freed from the lower stitch forming device
5 Stitch setting – when the thread is drawn onto or into the material

A series of repetitive stitches of one pattern is termed a stitch. The stitch could be formed in any of the three
methods given below:

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 1 - 5