Page 197 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

1.1 Tuck Dart
A tuck-dart is a partially stitched, inverted dart marked by a punch hole and circle along the centerfold and 1/8 inch
inside the stitch line, 1/2 inch below the finished length to cover the damage (Fig 1a)

The underside of the dart illustrates the stitched area. Note that stitching is 1/2 inch beyond the punch holes.
(Fig 1b)

Fig 1a Fig 1b

1.2 Pleat
A pleat is an unstitched, folded dart held securely along the joining seamline. It is developed as a dart on the
pattern but does not include punch hole and circle for dart point. Dart legs are notched. (Broken lines indicate the
original dart legs (Fig 2).

1.3 Flare
A flare is an open, unstitched dart. The open dart space is blended across the bottom. Punch holes, circles, and
notches are not needed. (Broken lines indicate original dart legs)

Flare should be added to the side seam. (Fig 3)

Fig 2 Fig 3

1.4 Gathers
Gathers are illustrated using the slash-spread and pivotal-transfer techniques. Gathers change the look of the
basic garment but do not affect the fit. The pivotal-transfer technique illustrates all of the dart excess transferred
for gathers.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 36 - 41 (1) CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 36 - 41 (1)