Page 201 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

3 Graduated and Radiating Darts
Graduated darts are darts of varying length within a group. Radiating darts spread
out (radiate) from a focal point in a balanced arrangement and may be of the same
or a graduated length.
To prevent bulging at the tip of the darts that are farthest from the bust mound, the
dart intake is generally 1/2 inch, with all remaining excess being absorbed by the
dart closest to the bust mound.
3.1Graduated Darts
Design Analysis

• Design features graduating darts along the shoulder line.
• The longest dart ends at bust level.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation
Fig 1
• Trace bodice front and label darts legs A and B.

• Square a line from the center front to the side seam, passing through the dart point.
• Draw a slash line from center front to 1 inch past the dart point. Label C.
• Draw four slash lines equally spaced from shoulder to guideline.
• Cut from paper.

Fig 2 (New Pattern Shape)
• Cut from neck to C and from C to dart point.
• Close dart legs A and B. Tape.
• Cut slash lines to, not through, guideline.
• Place on paper, spread, and tape. (Corner at neck will not meet, and part of guideline overlaps.)
• Trace the pattern and blend neckline.

• Center dart point 1 inch up from slash lines.
• Draw dart legs, fold and blend shoulder.
• Complete 1/2 inch seams. Trim fullest dart legs to within 1/2 inch of seamline. Add 1/4 inch at neck.

Fig 1 Fig 2

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 36 - 41 (1) CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 36 - 41 (1)