Page 82 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Variable quantity
It can be defined as the ratio of measurement used during pattern drafting

Size S M L
Neck 30 Cms 36 Cms 42 Cms
The size interval from S to M = 6cms and

M to L = 6cms
During drafting the neck curve we are using the measurement in the ratio of 1/6. i.e.1/6
Neck (Fig 2)
Here, the 1/6 Neck or 1/6 is defined as the variable Fig 2
quantity.
Because, this will vary according to the drafting method,
style
and design features.
In the above example,
Variable quantity (V.Q) for ‘S’ size =1/6 Neck = 30/6
=5cms.
V.Q for M size =1/6 Neck =36/6 = 6cms.
Hence, the increment S to M of Neck measurement
=V.Q of M – V.Q of S
=6 -5 =1cm or 10 mm
Also, the increment can be calculated directly by using the formula.
Increment = Size interval X Variable Quantity
For the above example, Increment of S to M of Neck Measurement = Size internal of M X VQ
= 6 X 1/6
= 1 cm or 10 mm
Increment applying method
The increment should be calculated and applied both in the ‘X’ and ‘Y’ direction. And the ‘+’ and ‘-‘sign should be
given for simply indicting the direction. (Fig 3)

Fig 3

67

CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 8 & 9 (4)