Page 83 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

To avoid fractional measurement like 0.5cms, 0.8cms the increment are normally referred by using millimeters
(mms). Eg:5 mm (0.5cms) 8mm (0.8cms), 12.5 mm (1.25cms)
Grading Methods

There are two types of pattern grading method. They are,
1 Radial Draft method
2 Track Shift method
1 Radial Draft Method
In this method, the pattern is in fixed position, and the grading is done on the peripheries of the pattern like a
circular or radial method. The increments are applied on each grading points, and patterns outlines are traced.
The lines and curves of the other graded sizes are drafted and traced using tracing wheel if necessary. After
finishing, the base size pattern is removed and the undrafted lines and curves are drafted correctly and finished.
(Fig 4)

Fig 4

Advantages
1 It is an easy method.

2 It can be completed within less time.
Disadvantages
1 It an approximate method.
2 It is suitable for children’s wears only.
2 Track Shift Method

In this method, the pattern is not in fixed position , and the grading is done by moving or shifting the base pattern
on the lines or tracks which already drawn on the paper to be cut. The increments are calculated and according to
the increments, the lines are tracks with axes are drawn on a paper in which the other patterns to be graded. The
axes are drawn on the base pattern and the base pattern is placed on the tracks and grading is done by moving
or shifting the pattern on the lines or tracks. The starting and end lines of the points of the graded patterns are
only marked. Then, the base size pattern is removed and the lines are finished with the help of the scale and the
curves are finished with the help of the base pattern.
Advantages
1 It is an accurate method.
2 It is suitable for all garments.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 8 & 9 (4)