Page 110 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Fabric Inspection

The “quality” of fabric from your supplier doesn’t meet your standards. In fact, it has a lot of problems. Fabric
inspection reveals countless defects ranging from drop stitches to color shading variation.
The 4-point system is the industry standard for evaluating fabric quality in the inspection industry. This system
assigns penalty points to a roll of fabric according to defect size, quality and significance.
But you must understand the different types of fabric defects to look for before you can use the 4-point system.
Fabric defects
• Horizontal lines
• Shade variation
• Dirt/stains

• Uneven dyeing
• Drop stitches
• Misprinting
• Crease marks

• Barre
• Neps/knots
• Abrasion marks
• Splicing
• Holes

• Defective selvage
• Snags
• Thick place/thin place
• Bowing and skewing
• Needle lines

• Coarse pick
• Coarse end
• Broken pick
• Broken end
• Missing end/end out

• Filling bar
1. Horizontal Lines
This fabric defect is defined by irregular lines that run from side to side.(Fig 1)
Causes

Horizontal lines are generally caused by:
• Faults in the bobbin (the barrel used to hold yarn in place)
• Irregular thread tension
Prevention
Preventing the appearance of horizontal lines in fabric is quite straightforward. Regularly replace the bobbin and
frequently check thread tension and positioning.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 34