Page 114 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Fig 7 Fig 8

Causes: Barre will typically appear as a horizontal streak of light or dark bars running the width of the fabric. The
bars must appear in a repetitive pattern to be considered barre. Barre is typically found parallel to the filling of
woven fabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric.
Barre is usually not detected until after the processing of fabric at the end of production.
Prevention: Barre is a result of physical, optical or dye differences in yarns or geometric differences in fabric
structure. Any combination of these differences can cause this fabric defect.
Like many fabric defects, it’s easier to prevent barre than to try and rectify it after production. Consistency in raw
material organization and labeling can help prevent mix-ups leading to barre, as well as continual equipment
maintenance. Following a First In First Out (FIFO) inventory system can help ensure consistent material flow and
usage.
9 Neps/Knots
Neps are small, tightly tangled knot-like masses of unorganized fibers that form a pinhead shape. These knots are
usually comprised of dead or immature fibers.(Fig 9)
Neps can be categorized into three types:
• Biological: Found in raw materials, these neps contain foreign material such as seed coat fragments, leaf or
stem materials. The manufacturer can usually remove them through wet processing.
• Mechanical: Found in ginned lint, card web, yams and cloth, these neps are largely a result of mechanical
processing.
• White speck neps: Generally not visible until dyeing, white speck neps contain immature clusters of fibers
and are considered the most severe type of neps.
Causes and of neps
Neps are caused when spools of yarn are tied together. This might be a result of:
• Accumulation of fly and fluff on machinery
• Poor lint cleaning
• Poor carding and incomplete removal of neps before processing
Prevention: To prevent neps and knots, ensure proper maintenance and cleaning of machinery and roller clearers.
Neps can be removed through combing before processing, so early detection of neps is critical to preventing neps
in finished fabrics.
10 Abrasion Marks
An abrasion mark is a discolored area damaged by friction or rubbing. (Fig 10)
Abrasion marks are sometimes also referred to as chafe marks or bruised places.
Causes and of abrasion marks
Chafing or impact with a hard or rough surface usually causes abrasion marks. For instance, scratches on the
breast beam of the loom might cause chafing.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 34