Page 119 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

19 Coarse End
Coarse end appears in fabric with warp yarn. (Fig 19)
Also known as heavy end, this is when the warp end is larger than normal in diameter, even sometimes double in
size. The opposite is a fine end, when the warp end is smaller in diameter than normal.
The diameter of the yarn is too large, irregular or contains foreign material, which inhibits a smooth, even fabric.
Causes
Coarse end is caused when two bobbins of roving (wool that has been run through a mill on a carding machine)
are running together during spinning. The process of running two bobbins together during spinning is commonly
referred to as doubling and is used to remove variations in thickness.
Prevention: To prevent coarse ends, ensure there are no knots, irregularities or foreign materials in the roving
prior to doubling.
20 Broken Pick
This defect appears as a broken filling yarn in the fabric weaving. It appears as a sharp discontinuity in the weave
pattern over the pick length. (Fig 20)

Fig 19 Fig 20

Causes: and prevention of broken pick
A broken pick is the result of a break or cut in filling yarn, which results in the insertion of a partial pick in the fabric.

This can happen after weft break, weft exhaustion or a faulty weft fork mechanism. Correcting weft stop motion
will ensure broken picks are detected before they’re inserted into the fabric.
Prevention: Ensuring weaving personnel are trained to identify and replace a broken pick during production can
also help prevent the appearance of this defect in the finished goods.
21. Broken End
A broken end appears as a broken, untied warp end of a fabric. (Fig 21)

The yarn is usually broken during weaving or finishing. Broken ends appear as equidistant horizontal lines along
the fabric width.
Causes and prevention: This defect is caused by yarn breakage. When the yarn breaks during weaving or
finishing and is then woven into fabric the result is a broken end.
Some possible causes for broken ends include:
• Poor preparation
• Weak or irregular yarn

• Excessive warp tension

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 34