Page 120 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

22 Missing End/End Out
This defect will appear in fabric as a fine warp-way crack until the weaver rectifies it. (Fig 22)

Fig 21 Fig 22

A missing end typically appears at the selvage of the fabric. Missing end is also known as “end out” and is typically
classified as a major defect during fabric inspection.
Causes and Prevention
A missing end occurs when an extra piece of filling yarn is jerked into the fabric by the shuttle. This happens when

a warp yarn is broken or missing during weaving.
Your fabric may end up with missing ends if a weaver improperly draws broken ends in place or the warp stop
motion isn’t properly functioning. Weaving should stop immediately when a yarn breaks to prevent introducing
missing ends into the fabric.
23 Filling Bar

A filling bar, also known as a weft bar, is a visual band or bar across the full width of fabric. (Fig 23)
The area will contain less than the normal number of picks, appearing different from the rest of the fabric.
Causes and Prevention
There are three main causes of a filling bar:
• Defective spinning processes that lead to a variation in the count of weft yarn

• Mixing of different counts or different twist yarns
• Faulty take up motion on the looms
Ensure your supplier has proper controls and organizational processes to eliminate mix-ups and segregate yarn
to prevent this fabric defect. In addition, ensure proper operation of spinning and loom machinery to eliminate
mechanical causes.
Defects of Accessories

Button & Button hole
The buttons are not fitting in the button holes resulting change in the shape or forming wrinkles.
Cause
• Carelessness of the Operator
• Wrong marking of buttons/holes
• Wrong cutting for making the button holes., (Fig 24)

105

CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 34