Page 146 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

3 Decide on Design Elements

- Determine where you want to incorporate gathers, pleats, tucks, and flare into the design.
- Sketch out your design ideas on the drafted basic block, marking areas for each design element.
4 Draft Gathered Sections
- For gathers, mark the areas where you want the fabric to be gathered.
- Add extra width to these sections while drafting the pattern. You can do this by extending the pattern piece
or adding slashing and spreading lines.
5 Draft Pleats
- Decide on the type and direction of pleats you want to incorporate (e.g., box pleats, knife pleats).
- Mark the pleat placement on the pattern and determine the width and depth of each pleat.

- Add extra fabric to accommodate the pleats in the pattern.
6 Draft Tucks
- Determine where you want to place tucks in the design.
- Mark the tuck lines on the pattern, indicating the width and spacing of each tuck.

- Adjust the pattern to include the additional fabric needed for the tucks.
7 Draft Flare
- Decide where you want to add flare to the garment (e.g., hemline, sleeves).
- Gradually widen the pattern from the desired flare point to create a flared silhouette.
- You can also add flare by slashing and spreading the pattern pieces.

8 Add Seam Allowance
- Once you’ve incorporated all design elements into the pattern, add seam allowances to all pattern pieces.
- Typically, a 1/2 inch to 5/8 inch seam allowance is added around all edges.
9 Cut Out and Sew Prototype

- Cut out the pattern pieces from fabric based on your drafted pattern.
- Sew the prototype together, leaving the edges unfinished for fitting purposes.
10 Fit and Adjust
- Try on the prototype to assess the fit and look.
- Make any necessary adjustments to the gather, pleat, tuck, and flare placements, as well as the overall fit.
11 Finalize Pattern

- Transfer any adjustments made during the fitting onto the pattern.
- Finalize the pattern by smoothing out curves, truing seam lines, and labeling pieces.
12 Make Additional Variations
- Experiment with different fabric choices, lengths, and embellishments to create various versions of the
garment.
Additional Tips
- Practice on scrap fabric or muslin before cutting into your final fabric.

- Keep in mind the fabric’s drape and weight when incorporating design elements like gathers, pleats, tucks, and
flare.
- Take your time and be creative with your design. These elements can add depth and visual interest to your
garments.

131
CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 42 CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 42