Page 147 - CTS - Dress Making - TP - Volume - 1

DRESS MAKING - CITS

By following these steps, you can design and develop patterns that incorporate gathers, pleats, tucks, and flare
to create unique and stylish garments.

Designing and developing patterns that incorporate gathers, pleats, tucks, and flare can add interesting texture,
volume, and visual appeal to garments. Below are the steps to create such patterns.
Materials Needed

1 Pattern paper or any large paper for drafting.
2 Pencil, eraser, ruler, and French curve.
3 Measuring tape.
4 Fabric for making a prototype.
Steps
1 Take Measurements

- Measure the wearer’s body or the intended measurements for the garment.
- Note down measurements such as bust, waist, hip circumference, and desired garment length.
2 Draft the Basic Block
- Begin by drafting the basic block pattern for the garment’s bodice or top part.

- Use the bust, waist, and hip measurements to draw a basic bodice block pattern with front and back pieces.
3 Decide on Design Elements
- Determine where you want to incorporate gathers, pleats, tucks, and flare into your design.
- Consider the placement, size, and direction of these elements to achieve the desired look.
4 Draft Gathers

- To create gathers, mark areas on the pattern where you want the fabric to be gathered.
- Extend these areas beyond the original pattern, adding extra width to accommodate the gathers.
- Draw gathering lines parallel to the grainline, evenly spaced, within these marked areas.
5 Draft Pleats:

- Decide on the type of pleats you want to incorporate, such as box pleats, knife pleats, or inverted pleats.
- Mark the width and depth of each pleat on the pattern, ensuring they are evenly spaced and aligned.
6 Draft Tucks:
- Determine the placement and size of tucks on the pattern.
- Mark the width and depth of each tuck, ensuring they are evenly spaced and aligned.
7 Draft Flare:

- Decide where you want to add flare to the garment, such as at the hemline or sleeves.
- Gradually increase the width of the pattern pieces from the waist down to create flare.
8 Add Seam Allowance:
- Once you’re satisfied with the design elements, add seam allowances to all pattern pieces.

- Typically, a 1/2 inch to 5/8 inch seam allowance is added around all edges.
9 Cut Out and Sew Prototype:
- Cut out the pattern pieces from fabric based on your drafted pattern.
- Sew the prototype together, leaving the edges unfinished for fitting purposes.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Exercise 42