Page 184 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Introduction Cutting technology

At the end of this lesson, you shall be able to:
• introduction of cutting technology
• requirement of cutting
• processes involved in cutting room
• types of cutting machines.

Introduction
Cutting is a pre-production process used to separate fabric parts as replicas that are of precise size and shape
as the pattern of pattern pieces in a marker plan.
Requirment Of Cutting
• Precision of cut- to ensure the cutting of fabric aquirly according to the line drown of the marker plan.
• Clean edge –By avoiding the fraing out of yarn from the fabric edge. Cutting edge must be smooth clean. Knife
must be sharp for smooth or clean edge.
• Consistency in cutting – all the sizing safe of the cutting parts should be same of knife should be operated of
the right angle of the fabric lay.
Processes Involved In Cutting Room
• Planning and, if appropriate ,drawing and reproduction of the maker
• Spreading of fabric to form a lay
• Cutting of fabric
• Preparation of cut work for the sewing room

Types of cutting machine
1 Manual cutting machine
These are used for cutting one or two piles and are often used in the sample room.The lower blade of the shears
passes under the piles, but the subsequent distortion of the fabric is only temporary and accurate cutting to the
line can be achieved with practice.
Advantage

Almost every type of cloth are cut by scissors. Scissors are mainly used for cutting single ply fabric.
Disadvantage: it takes huge time for fabric cutting .it is impossible to cut the fabric lay of any height
2 Semi- automatic (straight knife)
Knife is driven by electric power. Blade edge: straight edge ,wave edge, saw edge ,serrated edge, mostly straight
edge is used .It can cut heavy fabric such as canvas & denim.
Advantages
Comparatively cheap & transferred easily from one place to another. Higher lay of fabric can be cut easily. Round
corner can be cut more precisely then even round knife , Production speed is very good & fabric can be cut from
any angle.
Disadvantages
Some time deflection may occur due to the weight of motor. Knife deflection is high in risk, when lay height is too
high in risk, when lay height is too high. Sometime accident may happen.
Band Knife
• Band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by electric motor
• Cutting knife is shapeless in shape & flexible.

• Blade is usually narrower then on a straight knife.
• Machine is stationary but fabric is moveable.

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology -Lesson 13-24