Page 188 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Introduction to Fusing technology

At the end of this lesson, you shall be able to
• processing factors that control Fusing equipment
• methods of fusing
• defect during fusing process.

Introduction to fusing technology
Fusing is a an alternative process for joining fabric that is widely used for adding interlining consists of a base
fabric, which may be similar to the fabric used for sew-in interlining, But has a thermoplastic resin in the form of
dots on its surface ,which melt when heated at a specific temperature and pressure .
Not all apparel fabrics can be fused and there may always be some situations where sew-in- interlining continues
to be used ,But now a days, fusing is the most common process, due to technical and economic aspects.
Fusible Interlining
Fusible Interlining:- A base fabric coated on one side with a thermoplastic adhesive resin which can be bonded to
another fabric by the controlled application of heat and pressure.
Processing factors that control fusing :
Fusing is controlled by four processing components.
• Temperature
• Time

• Pressure
• Cooling
Fusing equipment
1 Electric Iron
2 Flat bed press

3 Conveyer fusing press
Methods of fusing
Fusing is done by following methods
1 Reverse fusing
• In this method, the outer fabric lies on top of the fusible.
• On flat bed presses with elements only in the top layer , it is necessary to adjust temperature setting .
2 Sandwich fusing
• This is effectively carried out on horizontal continuous fusing press where heat is applied from both sides
above and below.
• Two pairs of components forming two laminates are fused together with the two outer fabrics on the outside
of the sandwich and the interlinings on the inside.

3 Double fusing
• This is the fusing of two sorts of interlining to the outer fabric in a single operation.
• It is most commonly used in shirts collar and Men’s jackets front.

Defect during fusing process
There are mainly two types of defects which may occur during fusing.
1 Striking back
When two parts of fabrics are joined by pressure and heat during fusing it must have the control to the temp.&
pressure. Sometimes the pressure and heat are not controlled properly during fusing so that the resin is passed
through lower part of the fabric. This is called striking back.

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology -Lesson 13-24