Page 193 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Selection of sewing needle
Needle selection depends upon various factors such as:
• characteristics of the fabric

• Thread
• Seam type
• Stitch type
Needle point - The needle point is determined by the fabric weight and its structure.

Round points Needles: These have a conical shape designed to spread the yarns without breaking them; they
are used for most woven fabric
Ballpoint needles – These have a rounded point and are generally used for knits and stretch fabric.
Sewing thread and its selection criteria
The seam performance of the garment is greatly influenced by type of sewing thread and seam & stitch used.
Sewing thread

Sewing thread are special kinds of yarns. They are engineered and designed to pass through a sewing machine
rapidly. It is quite essential for a sewing thread to function efficiently in a sewn products without breaking or
becoming distorted during the use of garment.
STITCHES AND SEAMS
1 Seam is the combination of stitch which makes line to join two ply of fabric.
2 In apparel manufacturing seams are formed when two or more pieces of fabric are joined by stitches. Seam is
used for both functional and decorative purpose.
3 Seams have three dimensions: length, width & depth.
• Seam length: It is the total distance covered by a continuous series of stitches. (e.g. shoulder seam)

• Seam width: It is width of a seam allowance Measured from the cut edge of fabric to the main line of
stitches.
• Seam depth: It is the thickness or flatness of a seam, which are major factors in appearance and comfort
of a garment.
Factors affecting selection of Seam Type
1 Garment design, type, quality, end use, and care.

2 Fabric type, bulk, texture, weight transparency, and tendency to fray.
3 Desired strength and durability.
4 Difficulty of construction and skill of the operators.
5 Equipment available e.g. sewing machine.
6 Designer or manufacturer preference.
7 Current fashion trends

CLASSIFICATION OF SEAM
Seams are divided into eight classes:.
Class 1 - Superimposed seam
Class 2 -Lapped seam

Class 3 -Bound seam
Class 4 -Channel seam or flat seam
Class 5-Ornamental seam
Class 6 -Edge neatening

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology -Lesson 13-24