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FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

• Style of Embroidery: The embroidery uses a combination of horizontal, vertical and diagonal stitches.
The motifs are not traced on the fabric and the embroidery is executed by counting the yarns on the base
material.
• End Use: Traditionally the embroidery was done on Ilkal sari and other apparel items like women’s blouse
and children’s bonnets. Presently Kasuti embroidery is also done on home products like cushion covers,
bedcovers, curtains and accessories like handbags, mobile pouches, belts etc.
9 Lambadi Embroidery
• Region: Lambadi embroidery is practiced by the Lambadas or Lambanis, the Banaras of Bellary and
Bijapur in Karnataka and Hyderabad in Andhra Pradesh. The colorful embroidery was done by the women
to decorate their costumes namely phetia or skirt and kinchella or blouse.(Fig 9)
Fig 9

• Technique: The embroidery is done on hand-woven cloth in dark blue or red color. The embroidery is done
with colorful threads using basic stitches like herringbone stitch, chevron stitch, cross stitch and running
stitch, combined with appliqué. The embroidery is further embellished with mirrors, cowries’ shells, beads,
coins and silver trinkets.
• Motifs: The motifs are mainly geometrical with grid like patterns. Style of Embroidery: The embroidery
uses a combination of stitches and appliqué, along with mirror work and other embellishments like cowries’
shells and coins.
• End Use: In the past, Lambani women embroidered their garments and other utility products like pouches
and bags. Nowadays, the embroidery is done on a variety of products like cushion covers, bedcovers, wall
hangings, garments and accessories like bags, headbands, waist belts etc.
10 Kantha
• Region: Kantha is an embroidery style that originated in West Bengal. In the past, it was used to transform
old, used fabric into an embroidered textile.
• Technique: The embroidery is executed on layers of old white cotton saris that are stitched together
with simple running stitch in white thread. The motifs are traced and embroidered using different colored
threads. The embroidery threads used are drawn from the old sari borders. The basic stitch used is running
stitch along with satin stitch and chain stitch.
• Motifs: The motifs used in Kantha are lotus flowers, floral scrolls, tree of life, creepers; animal and bird forms;
fish, sea-monsters, mermaids, ships, submarine scenes; domestic articles like mirrors, pitcher, nut cracker,
umbrella, musical instruments and human figures like gods and goddesses, horse man, fisherwoman etc.
(Fig 10)
• Style of Embroidery: Different embroidery layouts are followed in Kantha. Some examples are: A central
motif and tree of life on all four corners, motifs arranged in panels or a big central panel and smaller motifs
placed around.
• End Use: Kanthas were mainly used as quilts and also offered to special guests to sit or sleep on it. It was
presented to the bride and groom as well as used to wrap valuables and gifts. Other uses of Kantha include
bags for keeping money and book cover. Nowadays, Kantha embroidery is done on single layer of white or

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