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FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

• Technique: The base material to execute Phulkari is handspun and hand-woven Khaddar that is dyed in
red, rust, brown, blue and darker shades. Soft untwisted silk thread ‘Pat’ is used forthe embroidery. The
colors of the thread are red, green, golden yellow, orange, blue etc. The basic stitch employed for Phulkari
is darning stitch, which is done from the reverse side of the fabric. The stitches follow the weave and a
beautiful effect is created on the fabric by changing the direction of the stitches. For outlining of motifs and
borders, stem, chain and herringbone stitches are sometimes used.
• Motifs: The motifs used in Phulkari are inspired by objects of everyday use like rolling pin, sword, flowers,
vegetables, birds, animals etc. They are generally geometrical and stylized. Usually one motif is left
unembroidered or is embroidered in an offbeat color. This motif is called ‘nazarbuti’ which is considered to
ward off the evil eye. (Fig 2)

Fig 2

• Style of Embroidery: The two embroidery styles prevalent in Punjab are Bagh and Phulkari. Bagh is a fully
embroidered wrap that is used for special occasions whereas Phulkari is simple and lightly embroidered for
everyday use.
• End Use: Phulkari is an important part of the bridal trousseau and is worn as a veil or wrap by women
on special occasions like Karva Chauth, a festival celebrated in North India for longevity of husbands. A
specific pattern of Phulkari is also used as canopy on religious occasions. Presently, Phulkari is being done
on bed linen and apparel like tops, tunics and skirts.
3 Chamba Rumal
• Region: Chamba Rumal, embroidery from Himachal Pradesh dates back to the 15th century. There is a
mention of this embroidery being practiced in Pathankot, Chamba and other remote villages of Himachal
Pradesh in Buddhist Literature and the Jataka Tales. Chamba was known for the most picturesque needle
work, which the Romans described as ‘needle painting’.
• Technique: The embroidery is executed on two types of unbleached cotton cloth: lightweight, delicate
muslin or handspun, hand-woven, coarser khaddar. Untwisted, dyed silk threads ‘Pat’ in bright colors like
red, yellow, green, blue, crimson and purple are used for the embroidery. The embroidery uses double satin
stitch which simultaneously fills in the motif on both sides of the fabric, making it reversible.(Fig 3)
• Motifs: The motifs used are inspired from Pahari paintings depicting Lord Krishna and his playful antics.
The embroidery also depicts the flora and fauna of the Himalayan region. Typical motifs include: tiger,
goat, deer, horse, peacock, and parrot; flowers, shrubs and plants, willow and cypress trees; and musical
instruments like sitar, table, veena, tanpura etc.
• Style of Embroidery: The embroidery is executed on a square piece of cloth. The motifs are arranged
on the rumal in order to portray scenes from Lord Krishna’s life. Some of the popular themes include
Rasamandala, Rukmini Haran and Kaliya daman. There are floral borders on all four sides of the rumal
• End Use: Traditionally the rumal was used as a cover for food Prasad offered to gods and goddesses. It
was also a custom to gift embroidered rumals at the time of weddings. Traditional Indian Now days, the
Chamba embroidery is done on fabrics like silk, polyester or terrycot and made into blouses, caps, slippers,
cushions covers etc. Embroidered silk wall hangings are also exported from Himachal Pradesh.

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 2