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FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

The tie-dye in India can be categorized according to region into Bandhani of Gujarat and Bandhej and Leheriya
of Rajasthan.
8 Bandhani of Gujarat

The tie-dye from Gujarat called Bandhani is regarded for its fine resist dots and intricate designs. Traditionally
the tie-dye is done on silk, cotton and wool. The motifs created by outlining with tiny dots are animal and human
figures, flowers, plants and trees. The products range varies from odhanis, saris, shawls to stitched garments like
kurta and skirts.
The major centres of bandhani in Gujarat are Jamnagar, Bhavnagar, Rajkot and Porbandar.
• Special Bandhani Textiles from Gujarat Gharcholu: A popular bandhani textile produced in Gujarat
is called gharchola or gharcholu, a traditional odhani for Hindu brides, which is nowadays available as a
sari worn on auspicious occasions. The tie-dyed textile in cotton or silk is red in color and the layout is a
checkerboard created with woven gold threads. Each square within the check contains a different tie-dyed
motif like dancing lady, parrot, elephant, peacock, flowering shrub and geometric forms.

9 Ikat
The term ‘ikat’ is derived from the Malay-Indonesian word ‘mangikat’ that means to bind or not. It is a yarn resist
technique wherein the yarns are tie-dyed, and on weaving a pattern is created on the surface of the fabric. An
ikat textile can be identified from the typical hazy patterning on fabric due to the resist dyeing of the yarns prior
to weaving.

Ikat can be classified into three categories:
• Single ikat: There are two kinds of single ikat namely warp ikat and weft ikat. As the name suggests, in
warp ikat, the warp yarns are tie-dyed and woven with plain solid colored weft yarns and similarly and in
weft ikat, the weft yarns are tie-dyed and woven with plain warp yarns.
• Double ikat: In double ikat, both warp and weft yarns are tie-dyed according to a pre-determined pattern
and then woven to create clear designs on fabric.

• Combined ikat: In combined ikat, both warp and weft yarns are tie dyed but they are present in selected
areas of a textile, to create interesting patterns.
The earliest reference to ikat can be found in the Ajanta cave paintings of the 6th century AD. Designs similar to
ikat are seen on the dresses of the females portrayed in the murals of Ajanta. There is a mention of double ikat
in the couplets of Rani Ranakdevi, Gujarati literature from 11th century AD as well as in the records of European
travelers from 16th century AD
The ikat textiles of India can be classified into three categories on the basis of region as follows:
• Patola of Gujarat

• Bandhas of Odisha
• Ikat textiles of Andhra Pradesh: Telia Rumal and Pochampalli
Patola of Gujarat
The double ikat weaving tradition of Gujarat is called ‘Patola’. The textile is produced by the weavers of the
Salvi community using expensive silk yarns. In the past, Patolas were manufactured in Patan, Khambat, Surat,
Porbander, Ahmedabad and Baroda in Gujarat. However with the passage of time, there are only two families in
Patan who continue to practice this craft.
The earliest reference to Patola can be visually seen in the Ajanta cave murals of 6th century AD. During the 16th
and 17th century, Patolas were regarded as precious silks by South-east Asia and Europe, and thus became an
important trade item at that time.
Patola textiles use intense colors like bright red, golden yellow, green, dark blue, reddish brown etc. The distinctive
Patola motifs are flowers, jewels, elephants, birds and dancing women for the Hindu and Jain communities. The
Muslim community restricts themselves to abstract designs. The Patola designs are named as Kunjar Popat Bhat
(Elephant – Parrot), Nari Kunjar Popat Bhat (Lady – Elephant – Parrot), Navratan Bhat (Jewel Mosaic), Phool Wali
Bhat (Floral), Chabri Bhat (Basket of Flowers) etc.

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 2 CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 2