Page 47 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

• History: Kinnaur remains cut-off from surrounding valleys during its long snowy winters. Weaving is a way
of life with Kinnaris. the “Silk Road”‘ is by far the most famous network of trade routes connecting China,
Central Asia, and India, there are other significant, ancient trade routes between these regions of which
many may not be aware. One such trade route, known informally as the “wool road”, connected the plains
of the Punjab in India to Tibet, Central Asia and China. Two groups of artisans that can be found along this
important route are the weavers of Kullu and Kinnaur. This is where the interesting twist to Kinnaur’s folk
history lies. Hinduism evolved there a few hundred years before Buddhism. Kinnaris are not villagers, they
have always considered themselves to be a tribe and find a mutual sense of belonging there.
6 Jamdani:Word meaning of Bengal’s Jamdani is flower vase, and it was patronized by the Mughals. This
fine muslin textile is woven with cotton and gold threads.Jamdani is derived from the Persian word “jam”
(meaning floral) and ‘Dani’ that is a vase or container named after decorative floral patterns found in Dhakai
Muslin.Jamdani weaving involves a labor-intensive process characterized by the use of a supplementary weft
technique. Skilled weavers meticulously intertwine the supplementary weft threads with the warp threads,
creating intricate patterns and motifs on the fabric. Traditional Jamdani designs include delicate floral patterns,
geometric shapes, and motifs inspired by nature, such as leaves and vines.
• History of Jamdani: Jamdani weaving has a rich and fascinating history that dates back centuries.
Originating in the Bengal region, particularly in present-day Bangladesh and parts of West Bengal, India,
Jamdani has evolved into a cherished weaving technique renowned for its intricate designs and delicate
craftsmanship.
7 Bandhani
Bandhani, derived from the word ‘bandha’ which means to tie, are tie-dyed textiles primarily from Rajasthan and
Gujarat. Tie-dye is a resist dyeing technique in which pre-determined areas on the fabric are tied tightly with
thread to protect them from the color, followed by dyeing and removal of threads to reveal an interesting pattern
on fabric.
The earliest reference to bandhani dates back to 6th-7th century AD at the Ajanta cave paintings that portray
women wearing bodices with resist dyed designs. There is a literary reference to bandhani textiles in Harshacharita
written by Banabhatta in 7th century AD. The biography quotes the wedding of King Harsha’s sister, Rajyashri and
details the tie-dyeing of the bride’s odhani.
The word ‘chunari’ is a commonly used term that refers to patterns created by fine tie-dyed dots. Since the resist
dyeing is done on head-cloths, chunari is also the name of the garment worn by women in Rajasthan.
The basic steps of creating a bandhani textile are as follows:

• Pre-preparation of fabric: The fabric generally used for tie and dye is finer variety of cotton and silk, so that
dye can penetrate deep into the layers of tied fabrics. It is soaked in water overnight and washed thoroughly
to remove the starch in order to improve its dye uptake. The fabric is bleached by drying it in the sun.
• Tracing of design: The fabric is folded into four or more layers for convenience of tying as well as to achieve
symmetry in design. The design layout is marked on the folded fabric with wooden blocks, dipped in washable
colors like Neel or geru.
• Tying of fabric: As per the design, the folded fabric is raised with a pointed metal nail worn over the finger. A
cotton thread coated with wax is wrapped tightly around the raised area to create a simple fine dot: bundi or
bindi, which is the basic motif of the design.
• Dyeing of fabric in the lightest color: After tying, the fabric is dyed in the lightest color first from the selected
color scheme. After dyeing, fabric is washed, rinsed and dried.
• Renewal of tying and dyeing in next-darker color: Parts of the fabric to be retained in the lighter color are
covered with tying and then the fabric is dyed in the next darker color. The Process of re-tying and dyeing is
continued till the darkest color in the scheme is applied.
• Washing: Following the final dyeing, the textile is washed to remove excess dye and starched.

• Opening the ties: The ties of the tie-dyed fabric are kept tied till purchased by a consumer in order to
differentiate between a bandhani textile and a printed imitation. Only a portion of the bandhani textile is opened
to display the color scheme to the customer. To unravel the ties, the bandhani textile is stretched crosswise to
open all ties at the same time.

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 2