Page 44 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Dart manipulation techniques
Dart manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to pattern drafting. Fashion designer must
identify the location of the dart before manipulating the pattern and how manipulate the dart. Dart manipulation
mainly starts with a basic slope, which they then convert into their stylish designs. Darts become princess seams,
gathers, tucks or cowls. New styles lines are added or moved, necklines are reshaped.
1 Slash-spread transfer and overlap technique

2 Pin and pivotal dart transfer technique.
3 Dart equivalent technique
1 Slash-spread dart rotation and overlap technique: Pattern graders use the slide motion to change pattern
sizes. They slide patterns up, down, and to the side to gradually increase or decrease from one size to the
next. Use this sliding motion to add or subtract length. (Fig 19)

Fig 19

2 Pin and Pivotal dart rotation technique: Pattern designers use pivoting methods to make fashion changes.
They move darts or add fullness by anchoring the basic pattern with a pin and moving the pattern in, out, and
around. (Fig 20).

Fig 20

The pattern swings back and forth like the pendulum on a grandfather clock. Use this pivoting motion to change
the pattern width.
3 Dart equivalents technique: Pleats or gathers in the fabric can be used as for the same purpose as a normal
stitched dart. These are called dart equivalents. Darts can also be worked into style lines.(Fig 21)

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 2 CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 2