Page 49 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Bandhas of Odisha
The ikat textiles called ‘bandhas’ are produced in Odisha. Mostly, bandhas are single ikats or combined ikats,
woven by specific weaver groups like Mehars and Patras. Cotton and silk ikats are manufactured in Cuttack,
Nuapatna, Sonepur, Bargarh and Sambalpur.
The bandhas of Odisha are characterized by curved forms with hazy outlines. The distinct hazy lines are created
since only one set of yarns in the fabric are tie-dyed. Mainly weft ikat is done in Odisha. Some popular motifs are
shankha or conch shell, swastika, creepers, flowers like lotus, intertwined snake, fish, tortoise and elephant.
The bandha weavers of Odisha are known for the usage of striking color combinations and delicate intricate
patterns. The ikat saris of Odisha are the popular attire of the local women, and are also preferred by the modern
women of India. Besides the cotton and silk ikat saris, the other products woven by the weavers are yardage,
stoles, scarves and dupattas.
10 Bagru prints
• Region: Bagru is a small village in Rajasthan, which is known for its mud-resist block prints.

• Technique: In Bagru, the printer first processes the raw material which is mainly cotton. Other natural
fabrics are silk, cotton and silk blends etc. The fabric is then printed with mordants in paste form. The
printing is done by using outline and filling blocks. The prints are then covered with a resisting paste ‘dabu’
made of clay and gum. It is then dried and dyed in vegetable dye. The mud resist paste is used to resist
the penetration of dyes, mainly vegetable dyes on cotton fabric as per the design. After dyeing the fabric
is thoroughly washed at the river. The mud resist paste is washed off exposing printed motifs on white
background surrounded by the base color. Hence, the resulting effect of dark and deep background with
light colored prints is achieved by resisting and mordanting.
Motifs: The motifs are inspired by the 17th century Persian motifs and are classified into the following five
categories:
• Single motifs like flowers, leaves and buds. Some examples are suraj ka phool, chakri, anguthi, gende ka
phool.
• Entwined tendrils that include all over jaal of leaves, flowers and buds.
• Trellis patterns include jaalis from the Mughul period.
• Figurative designs that include animal and human figures such as elephant, deer, lion, peacock, dancing
women, warrior men etc.
• Geometric designs include waves (lehariya), chess (chaupad), Fortress wall projections (kangura), lines
(dhariya), dots (bindi) etc.
• End Use: The brightly colored block printed fabrics from Bagru are used for apparel as well as home furnishings
such as quilts, bedspreads, cushions and curtains.
11 Kalamkari
Andhra Pradesh is famous for many of its textile crafts, one of which is Kalamkari, which means ‘pen-craft’. This
style of printing was practiced in coastal Deccan and many other places Kalamkari, the dye painted and printed
exquisite textile symbolically named after the technique of its making, ‘kalam/qualam’ meaning pen and ‘kari’
meaning art, has been prevalent in several parts of southern India since ancient times. Referred to as ‘Chintz’
by the English and ‘Pintadoes’ by the Portuguese, Kalamkari was patronized by both Mughals and later by the
Europeans in India.
Kalamkari fabrics were believed to brighten up with each subsequent wash. The specially prepared cotton fabric
was hand drawn with a special pen using mordants as ink. These fabrics were then dyed in natural dyes.
The fabrics printed at Masulipatnam were used as furnishings such as bedspreads, curtains, table cloths etc apart
from apparel. In fact these fabrics were so popular in the West, that these were banned by France and England,
as it was a threat to their domestic printed fabric industry. These fabrics were also referred to as ‘Palampores’.
• Region: Srikalahasti, Masulipatnam, Polavaram and Pedana in Andhra Pradesh have been the major centres
of this craft.
• Tools: The main tool used in Kalamkari is an improvised brush known as ‘kalam’. It is made of bamboo stick
which has a pointed edge like a pen. Near the tip, a ball of wool or felt is tied. Whenever the kalam is dipped in
dye, the ball of wool absorbs the dye which is pressed while drawing. This maintains constant flow of the dye
to the tip for continuous drawing

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 2