Page 51 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

• Technique: Making of the motifs for pallu and other part of Baluchari sari is an intricate process. Earlier,
Baluchari saris were made on jala looms which were gradually replaced by the modern jacquard technique.
Traditionally the motifs were woven on handlooms, using softly twisted extra weft yarns which used to
give a plump, embroidered effect. Zari is not used for extra weft ornamentation .Now a days; jacquard
attachment is used for weaving patterns on the sari. The design is drawn on a graph paper; it is colored
and punched on the jacquard cards. After punching, these cards are put in order and fixed in the jacquard
machine on top of the loom.

Motifs: The pallu of the Baluchari sari is special as it is divided into niches bordering a square or rectangular
space in the center. In each of the niches, a human figure is depicted, normally a king smoking a hookah or a
queen with a fan or smelling a flower. A row of three, five or seven ornate paisley (kalkas) is seen in the centre of
the pallu, around which niches with human figures are woven.

The baluchari saris are often reckoned with the patterning of sun, moon, stars, mythical scenes and motifs of
natural objects. The fields of the saris are embellished with small butis. Colors like maroon, blue, red and dull dark
terracotta were used as the base color. Ornamentation of butidar Baluchari saris is done with extra weft motifs in
off-white, white, yellow and dull orange colored yarn.
These saris were mostly worn by women from upper class and zamindar households in Bengal during festive
occasions and weddings.
14 Jamdani Sari
• Region: The Jamdani saris are from West Bengal. These are sheer, delicate saris woven in Phulia, Nadia
and Shantipur villages. These are made in combination of cotton with cotton, cotton with silk and silk with
silk. Technique: The technique of interlocking the extra weft yarns for creating motifs in the fabric is used
in Jamdani saris. These are woven on traditional handlooms.
• Motifs: Floral geometric creepers, paisleys and leeves are the most common motifs in the Jamdani saris.
Paithani Sari
• Region: Paithani saris are woven in Paithan and Yevla villages of Aurangabad in Maharashtra. Paithani saris
are heavy silk saris which are preferred for wedding trousseau and festive wear.
• Technique: The intricate motifs are woven by interlock twill tapestry weaving technique on traditional
handlooms.

Motifs: Bright jewel tones such as emerald green, ruby red and yellow colored silk yarns were used; however
midnight blue colored saris were most preferred. The interlocking technique created geometric angular forms out
of patterns which were floral, paisleys, parrots, peacocks and lotus flowers. The pallu used to have a broad band
of zari. At present the pallu band is ornamented with lotuses and peacocks woven in very bright colors. Another
motif seen on paithani saris is the bird (munia) motif. Paithani is coveted in India as a precious heirloom passing
on from generation to generation. Exquisite silk from Paithani was exported to many countries and was traded in
return for gold and precious stones.
15 Kanjeevaram Sari
• Region: Kanjeevaram saris hail from the town of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu. It is considered to be one of
the most expensive saris in the world and thus used for all special occasions.
• Technique: The sari is woven in pure mulberry silk and gold zari on hand operated pit-looms. The colors
most commonly used are mustard, deep green, maroon, aubergine, etc.

• Motifs: The motif imagery is drawn from the nature and forms of temple architecture. Some examples are
peacock, parrot, rosary beads, bird’s eye, kalash, mythical creatures, temple designs, and scenes from
Ramayana, Mahabharata and Bhagwad Geeta etc.

16 Chanderi Saris
• Region: Chanderi, near Gwalior, in Madhya Pradesh is renowned for its woven saris appropriate for
summer wear. The craft is practiced by MuslimA sari weavers.

• Technique: The sari is woven in a blend of cotton and degummed silk. It is diaphanous and is woven in
pastel colors with small buties and a narrow gold border. The pallu generally has fine lines in zari yarn.

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 2