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FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

• Technique: The first step involves preparation of grey cloth which is achieved by soaking the cotton fabric in
water for an hour and consequent washing so as to remove the starch which is followed by drying. Next, the
fabric is treated with myrobolan solution which gives the cloth a light yellow tone.
The outlining of the main theme and figures are then drawn by using ferrous acetate solution prepared by
fermenting iron scrap with jaggery. This solution gives black color. Alum solution is prepared by dissolving alum
in water. This is applied wherever red is desired. Combination of blocks and hand painting using ‘kalam’ makes
Kalamkari fabrics desirable for consumers. The fabric is then dyed with alizarine. The areas painted with ferrous
solution turn jet black and the ones painted with alum become bright rust red.
• Style and Motifs: The art of Kalamkari under the patronage of Mughals in Coromandal and Golconda
provinces branched out into two schools. Masulipatnam under the Golconda province catered to the Mughal
tastes with its Persian influence according to Islamic aesthetics. The prints from this region were characterized
by intricate motifs and forms including the tree of life, ‘mehrab’ pattern, ‘jaals’, creeper and stylized peacocks.
• Colors: Blue, ochre yellow, red and black are the main colors used in Kalamkari.
• Blue is associated with Lord Krishna and also other Gods.
• Yellow is used to show female bodies and also gold ornaments in deeper ochre shade.
• Green color is used to depict Lord Hanuman
• Red color depicts demons and bad characters.
• End Use: The fabrics printed at Masulipatnam are used as furnishings such as bedspreads, curtains, table
cloths etc apart from apparel like kurtas, saris and dupattas.
12 Banaras brocade sari
• Region: Banarasi brocade saris are from Varanasi/Banaras, a small town in the state of Uttar Pradesh.
The holy city of Banaras, on the banks of river Ganga, is considered to be the oldest city in the world. The
brocaded fabrics from Banaras are considered to be one of the finest saris in India and are known for their
gold and silver brocade or ‘zari’. These saris are made of finely woven silk, decorated with intricate design.
• Technique: The designs are produced by warp and weft threads of different colors and materials, suitably
woven. Extra warp/weft or both are woven into the fabric. Pattern is woven with or without attachments like
jacquard or dobby attachment or by jala weaving. It can be silk on silk, cotton on cotton, silk on cotton, zari on
silk. The brocade designs are made with extra yarns other than the ground threads. When these extra yarns
are picked from selvedge to the other end, the yarns appear on the face of the fabric in the design portion and
as floats on the back of the fabric in the remaining portion. A very special technique often seen in Banaras is
the ‘Minakari’.
Motifs: The most commonly used motifs are:
• Chrysanthemum buta
• Keri (paisley) buta

• Ganga jamuni style (half gold and half silver zari)
• Ari jhari (diagonal stripes)
• Latifa buta
The designs are extremely fine and delicate. They have a strong Mughal influence. Motifs like intertwining floral
and foliage (Jaal), paisley in a creeper (Kalka bel) and hunting scene (shikargah pattern) are often seen.
• End Use: These textiles were popular items of export to European countries. Traditionally, banarasi brocades
were used during Mughal period as fabrics for royal coats, achkans and jamas. Courts and palaces were
adorned with brocade curtains, fabric fans, bolsters and foot stools, upholstered with brocades. Brocade saris,
dupattas and dress fabric were worn by women on special occasions, mainly on weddings and festivities.

13 Baluchari sari
• Region: Baluchari saris are beautiful ornate saris mainly produced in Murshidabad district of West Bengal.
Baluchari sari is distinctly different from other saris of India, as it commemorates the Nawab and his wife
by depicting them on the pallu of the sari.

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 2 CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 2