Page 141 - CTS - Sewing Technology - TP - Volume - 2-0

SEWING TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Misprints are most often the result of:

• Wrong dyeing recipe
• Wrong leveling agent
• Incorrect dye combinations in lots
• Improper scouring of grey fabric

Implementing uniform dyeing, leveling and scouring processes can help prevent misprinting.
If you’re sourcing a printed fabric, make sure to provide clear specifications regarding the colors and patterns of
your printed fabric to your factory. Consider providing pantone color numbers and design files as a guide for your
supplier.
7 Crease Marks
A crease mark is a visible deformation in fabric. A crease mark differs from a crease streak, as it’s unlikely to
appear for an entire roll. Rather, it appears in just one spot on the fabric. (Fig 7)
If final pressing cannot restore fabric to the original condition, a crease mark will be left on the final product.
Discoloration can also be a problem associated with this fabric defect.
Causes
Crease marks often happen when fabric passes through squeeze rollers in the dyeing process. Creasing is
inevitable as fabric is fed through machines in rope form. But if properly handled, crease marks should not be
permanent.
Crease marks can be caused by:

• Inadequate preparation, relaxation or bulking of fabric
• Poor quality of fabric: a tight construction, high twist yarns or dense weight
• Poor suitability of machine: not moving folds properly
• Incorrect loading of fabric into machine, resulting in twisted or knotted rope

• Excessively rapid heating or cooling rates
Prevention
Along with rectifying these issues, using anti-crease agents during the scouring process prior to dyeing can help
prevent crease marks.
8 Barre
A barre is an unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of continuous bars and stripes.(Fig 8)

Fig 7 Fig 8

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CITS : Apparel - Sewing Technology - Exercise 30