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SEWING TECHNOLOGY - CITS



           Abrasion marks are sometimes also referred to as chafe marks or bruised places.
           Causes and of abrasion marks
           Chafing or impact with a hard or rough surface usually causes abrasion marks. For instance, scratches on the
           breast beam of the loom might cause chafing.
           Abrasion resistance is the ability of a fabric to withstand surface wear and rubbing.  Fiber, yarn and fabric
           properties and finishing processes are the main factors that determine abrasion resistance.
           Prevention: Using fabrics that are more abrasion resistant can help reduce abrasion marks. Nylon is generally
           regarded as having the best abrasion resistance, followed by polyester.
           11 Splicing

           Splicing is the overlapping of the cut ends of two pieces of fabric (the end of one length of fabric and the beginning
           of another) to ensure continuous spreading. Splicing is necessary as one roll of fabric finishes and the next is
           taken into use.
           Causes: The overlapping ends of fabric produce a waste material in manufacturing. Splicing losses can vary up
           to five percent of total fabric usage. Importers can ensure greater manufacturing efficiency by minimizing splicing
           in their fabric. (Fig 11)
           Many importers assign four penalty points under the 4-point system for each splice found during fabric inspection.

           Prevention: The position of the splice in a roll of fabric often depends on the overall fabric quality. Splicing is often
           used to compensate for other fabric defects, like stains or holes, by removing these from the final roll.
           So improving overall fabric quality and preventing other fabric defects can often help to minimize splicing losses.

           Setting a maximum length tolerance for splicing in each roll of fabric with your supplier can help to clarify your
           expectations (e.g. no more than one splice every 30 meters). Be sure to consult your supplier on this tolerance
           before production to ensure it is achievable.
           12 Holes
           A hole is an imperfection where one or more yarns are sufficiently damaged to create an opening in the fabric.
           (Fig 12)

                               Fig 11                                            Fig 12






















           Holes are typically treated as a major defect in the fabric and are assigned either two or four penalty points during
           fabric inspection, depending on their size.
           Causes
           Holes are usually caused by an accidental cut or tear to the fabric. Broken needles or rough mechanical parts are
           common culprits for fabric tearing during manufacturing.







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                                     CITS : Apparel - Sewing Technology -  Exercise 30
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