Page 363 - CTS - Sewing Technology - TP - Volume - 2-0

SEWING TECHNOLOGY - CITS

TASK 5: Stitch the gent’s trouser
1 Prepare the slant pockets on the marks in front sides
2 Set the knife pleats in front on marks and baste them fold of pleat should be directed towards the pocket.
3 Stitch the darts on marks at the back side. Press and set towards seat seam line.
4 Prepare hip pocket with flap on right side of the back.

5 Prepare the zip fly
6 Join sides of front and back, with
7 Prepare the belt and attach on waist line.
8 Stitch the inside leg seam joining front and back together.

9 Stitch crotch from back to front up to the zip fly forming cross seam at the joint of seam lines.
10 Lock at the end of fly from right side, making a triangle of 0.5 cm with double row clif stitching.
11 Clip crotch seam allowance on the shaped portion in diagonal direction up to 5mm. Press it open and set
flat by stretching. Stitch self bound seam on seam allowance. Press and finish at the top with hemming.
12 Inside sew the edges of lower end of the shield lining to crotch seam allowances. Be careful, Stitches
should not be visible on front side.

13 Prepare five belt carriers (SS No.5). Fix one belt carrier on the waist band above each front pleat, one on
back centre seam and one in centre between centre seam and pleat.
14 Finish the bottom line with broad hem.

Fix and stitch one pant hook in the centre of the extended edge at waist band on the wrong side. Fix
another hook on waist band above the zip fly on wrong side. Be careful that the edge of hook and stitches
are not visible from front side.
15 Fix eyes on the other side of waist band (matching with the position of the hooks)
16 Trim the threads, finish and press.

Skill Sequence No. 1

Slant pocket

Objectives : At the end of this exercise, you shall be able to:
• stitch slant pockets in front part.

Procedure

Take one jetting over lock one long short edge. (Fig 1)
Place the pocket pouch on the trouser with right side of the pocket pouch and wrong side of the original material
together match side edges.
Baste both the pieces together from right side slightly away from the mark line. Cut a tape of thin cloth on straight
gain 1 cm wide. (Woven tape/selvedge of cloth can also be used.) Place the tape edge along the basting line on
wrong side of the pocket pouch and stitch along the centre of the tape. Place jetting piece on the other side of the
pouch piece with right sides together and raw edges matching at top and side. Baste and stitch along the over
locked edges. (Fig 2)
Cut off the pocket pouch cloth along the outer edge of tape. (Fig 3)

Fold the triangular portion of original cloth on mark towards wrong side on pouch piece, iron gently. (Fig 4)

348

CITS : Apparel - Sewing Technology - Exercise 41