Page 400 - CTS - Sewing Technology - TP - Volume - 2-0

SEWING TECHNOLOGY - CITS

EXERCISE 44 : Pattern making of single breasted blazer

Single breast blazer

At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
• draft and do pattern making for Single Breasted Blazer.

Procedure

TASK 1: Take measurement
Measurements in cm

Full Length - 76cm
Chest - 92 cm
Waist - 82 cm
Seat - 96 cm
Half back - 19 cm

Shoulder - 21.5 cm
Natural waist - 42 cm
Sleeve - 61 cm

TASK 2: Drafting classic single breasted blazer

Draft the front and the back joined. This type of garment is of second degree, therefore it needs a greater
ease allowance. The ease allowance can vary according to the fabric and the shape desired. Example ½ bust
circumference + 5 cm for ease allowance + 2.5cm discard fabric.

Example: 46 + 5cm + 2.5 cm = 53.5 cm
Back
Begin with top left corner of the square. This is point A. Square down and across from point A.
A - A1 - ½ bust circumference + 5 cm + 2.5 cm discard.

A - B - Move down 1/24 size + 0.5 cm.
A - B1 - Move down 4.5 cm and square across.
A - C - 1/8 height + 1/24 size + 1.7 cm ease allowance. Square across.
A - D - Back waist length measurement. Square across.
D - E - Hip depth. Square across.

A - F - Blazer length. Square across.
A - G - 1/6 size + 0.5 cm. With a curve join point B – G.
A - H - ½ back width + 0.5 cm.
C - C2 - ½ C – C1 + 1 cm.

F – F1 - Same amount as C – C1. Join point C2 to F2.
H - I - Perpendicular to C – C2.
H - L - Move down 4.5 cm.
B1 - L1 - ½ back shoulder width + 1.5 cm (1 cm ease) + 0.5 cm ease allowance.

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