Page 405 - CTS - Sewing Technology - TP - Volume - 2-0

SEWING TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Double breasted blazer

Objectives : At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
• draft and do pattern making for double breasted blazer.

To draft this blazer, use the classic single breasted blazer and trace the front and the back joined. Calculate ½
bust circumference + ease allowance + some cm for the discard fabric. The ease allowance can vary according
to fabric and the desired shape.
TASK 1: Take measurement
Measurements in cm
Full Length - 76cm

Chest - 92 cm
Waist - 82 cm
Seat - 96 cm
Half back - 19 cm
Shoulder - 21.5 cm
Natural waist - 42 cm

Sleeve - 61 cm

TASK 2: Drafting double breasted blazer
Back
D - F - Blazer length
D - D2 - Move right 2 cm (not a fixed measurement)

F - F2 - Same measurement as D-D2.
M - M1 - Move right 0.5 – 1 cm.
D2 - R - 15 cm (not a fixed measurement)
R3 - R4 - From point R move 1.2 cm each side.

R - F3 - Square down. With a curve join points M-R-F3, M-R3-F3, and M1-R4-F3.
L1 - L2 - Move up 0.5 – 1 cm for shoulder pad.
Front
D1 - A2 - Front waist length
A2 - A3 - Move left 3 cm.

A3 - G - 1/6 size + 0.5 cm.
G - G2 - Move left 1 cm.
G2 - L1 - Same measurement as back length.
L1 - L2 - Move up 0.5 – 1 cm for shoulder pad.

G - G1 - Move right 2 cm.
D1 - D3 - Square right 6 – 8 cm (double breasted).
D3 - P - Square up 2-4 cm (position for the first button)
G1 - P - Roll line. Draw the collar as shown in tailored double breasted collar.
R2 - F4 - Square down from 1.
M1 - M3 - Move left 0.5 – 1 cm.

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CITS : Apparel - Sewing Technology - Exercise 44