Page 407 - CTS - Sewing Technology - TP - Volume - 2-0

SEWING TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Procedure in drafting tailored double breasted collar pattern
This collar is used especially for classic men suits, but it is also used for women. Use the dart less bodice to draft
this collar.

A1 - N - Bust height.
A1 - A2 - Move left 3 cm and join to point N.
A2 - G5 - Move left 1/6 of size.
D - D3 - Square right 6 cm (double breasted).

D3 - P - Square up 3 cm. Break point (not a fixed measurement).
G5 - G4 - Move right 1.5 cm and join point P (roll line).
G4 - R - Extend the roll line the same amount as back neck measurement +0.5 cm.
R - R1 - Square left 1.5 cm and join to point G5.
R1 - R2 - Square right 7.5 cm and square down the same measurement as line R1-G5.
G4 - Q - Move down the roll line1/6 of size + 1 cm.

Q - P1 - Move down 4 cm.
P1 - P2 - Square left 10 cm (not a fixed measurement).
P2 - P - With curve connect the points.
P4 - Mid point of line P1-P2.

P2 - P3 - Extend 5 cm and join to point P4.
P4 - Q1 - Move left 8 cm passing through point Q and join to point G5.
G5 - R3 - Parallel line to R1-R2.
P3 - Q2 - Move 1.5 cm, use the curve to join points R2-R3-Q2.
R3 -R4 - Move up 2 cm (not a fixed measurement). This is the reference point for the rotation of the back collar.
Copy the red square and rotate.
G5 - L2 - Same measurement as the back shoulder length G-L1.
M - M1 - Square left 1 cm. Using the curve, draw a new arm hole touching points L2-M1-C2.
G5 - G6 - Move left 4 cm along shoulder length (for front facing).

D - D4 - Move left 6 cm and join to point G6. (Fig 2)

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CITS : Apparel - Sewing Technology - Exercise 44