Page 174 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024
P. 174
DRESS MAKING - CITS
Lesson 30 (2) : Form Measurements & Figure Analysis
Objectives
At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
• know about the different size charts
• take measurements from the dress form or model
• understand that how different body measurements help to make a perfect garment.
Pattern industry standards
In response to national standards and consumers’ needs, the pattern industry established the Measurement
Standard Committee, which devised its own standard set of figure types and sizes. The examples below are
composites of the pattern industry designated figure types by age and height categories.
If your figure is less than perfect, remember it’s the pattern that must be perfect, not your figure. To begin the
process, it will be necessary to assess the unique characteristics of the body being measured.
Measuring dress form: Drafting depends on measurements taken from a form or model. Measurement must be
taken carefully to avoid fitting problems.
Preparing the Dress Form for Measuring:
Forms are sometimes imperfect, with measurements not always equal on each side of the center. Check and
remark the side seams if necessary.
• Bust bridge: Cut a strip of cloth having 1 ½ inch width and 26 inches long. Fold edges to center and
fold again. Place across bust points, ending 1 inch past the side seam. Push pins through to secure. Trim
unneeded length. Thrust pins through bust points. Mark center line. (Fig 1)
• Waistline: Replace waistline tape, if damaged.
• Pinhead guides: Thrust pins through shoulder tip at the ridge, or roll line, mid-armhole at level with the plate
screw, and 3/8 inch below the center front neck. (Fig 2)
• Armhole depth chart: To locate armhole depth, choose the measurement from the Armhole Depth Chart
below that corresponds to the form size. Measure down from the armhole plate and thrust a pin head at the
location. Grade up or down by 1/8 inch for smaller or larger sizes. As with establishing a set of measurements,
they are to be test fitted with sleeve attached. Make adjustments if necessary. (Fig 3)
159