Page 259 - CITS - Dress Making - TT - 2024

DRESS MAKING - CITS

Problem 7 : Stress at center front (insufficient room at the pubic area)
Solution: Release the center line and gently tug at the pant leg to allow the needed room at the center line.
Measure the space.
Pattern correction: Add to the center line half the measured amount. Add an equal amount to the crotch point.
Problem 8: Stress from the abdomen (waist band pulled downward)
Solution: Release the center line and slash to side seams. Tug and measure the width and length of the open
space at the intersection.

Pattern corrections: Slash to, but not through, the side seam and spread the measured amount. Add to the
center line and crotch point half the measured amount. Draw the adjusted center line, blending with crotch curve.
Problem 9: Vertical fold at center front and or back
Solution: Pin at the fullest part of the excess and allow to vanish at each end. (Do not pull the crease line off-
center when pinning excess.) Pencil mark the pins before removal and measure widest part of the opening.
Pattern corrections: Use the marked pinned section to draw the shape on the pattern. Mark equal amounts at
the center line. Draw a blending line to the crotch curve. Trim the excess. Adjust the grainline and leg line

Problem 10 : Hemline out of alignment (indicates a high/low waistline or dominant bulge). The crease line does
not align with the center of the foot or shoe.
Solution: Release the side seam to the hip level of the front and back pant. Release the darts. Gently tug the
pant leg until the crease line is in the center of the shoe. Re-pin the side seams and darts, allowing the necessary
ease for a good fit.
Pattern correction: Add needed amount to the front pant, as shown. Repeat on the back pant.

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CITS : Apparel - Dress Making - Lesson 42 - 45 (6)