Page 236 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Practical

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

TASK 2: Prepare patterns for Deep-Cut Square Armhole

1 Trace the front and back bodice. Now, Transfer the back shoulder dart to the mid-armhole. Mark the point P,
1/2 inch out from front and back shoulder tips. Mark the point Q, 3 inches down on side seams of the front and
back armholes. Mark point R, 2 inches squared from B. Now Connect R with P using a slightly curved line.
Please not that the broken lines of front and back bodice indicate original armhole. Mark the notches s shown
and cut from paper. Trim Q–R sections to complete the bodice patterns.
2 Place the sleeve and the center basic sleeve at lower edge of paper. Trace and include all markings. Label S
and T at corner of biceps and extend a line 4 inches out from each end for a guide. Square a short guideline out
from each side of the grain at cap level. Place back and front patterns on the draft, with R on biceps guideline
and P touching on cap guideline. Draw a bodice armhole, including notches, and remove pattern. Please note
that the broken lines indicate untraced pattern. Now, Cross mark points Q on the sleeve. Remove the pattern
and redraw the front armhole curve, flattening slightly. Draw curved lines from Q to elbow level on front and
back. Please note that the space on the front cap between the P-points is cap ease. If this measures more
than 1/2 inch, slash the grainline at cap to, not through, wrist and overlap to remove unneeded excess. Tape
the patterns and secure.

3 Now, draw a curved slash line from Q to the mid-point of cap line. Divide the area into three sections and draw
the slash line. Cut the sleeve from the paper. Starting at points Q, cut slash lines to, not through, cap line. For
Sleeve Lift, Place the sleeve on the paper and raise points Q, 2 inches or less, spreading sections evenly.
Trace the pattern and draw curved lines from points Q past elbow level and trim dart excess from wrist, as
shown in the following figures. Draw the grainline and complete the patterns.

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Exercise 15 CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Exercise 15