Page 127 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Terms of draping:

• Apex: the highest point of the bust and a reference point for establishing the cross grain for the front bodice
• Center Front: vertical line that marks the middle front of the garment
• Center back: vertical line that marks the middle back of a garment
• Seam: two or more edges of fabric held together by stitches
• Bias: A diagonal line across the grain of the fabric to showcasing maximum stretch

• Cross grain: section of fabric that runs perpendicular to the lengthwise grain that runs from selvage to selvage
• Dart: a design feature that aids in fitting garments around the shape of body.
Tools used in draping
Draping tools are necessary to drape, measure, mark and draft designs.

1 Awl: It is a pointed metal instrument used for punching holes for belt eyelets.
2 1/8-inch Clear Plastic Ruler: It is a two-inch wide ruler divided into 1/8-inch grids.
3 French Curve Ruler: An irregular curve ruler used to shape and curve edges of collars, necklines, crotch
seams, armhole and hip curves.

4 Iron: A steam-and-dry iron is used to smoothen and flatten and aid in blocking muslin.
5 L-Square: A metal or plastic ruler with two arms of different lengths meeting at right angles.
6 Muslin: An inexpensive fabric, on which the grain and cross grain are quite visible. Basically it is used to drape
garments made of woven goods.
7 Notches: A punching tool used to mark the edge of a sloper or paper pattern.
8 Pencils: Pencils are used in developing muslin patterns.
9 Pin Cushion or Pin Dispenser: A sewing tool that keeps pins organized in a convenient place.
10 Scissors and Shears: Shears are usually four-to eight inches long and made of steel Bent-handled shears
are excellent for easy and straight cutting.
11 Style Tape: A narrow, woven tape that is used to define style lines on the dress form.
12 Straight Pins: Dressmaker pins with sharp tapering points that will not rust are used to anchor muslin or fabric
to the dress form while draping.
13 Tailor’s Chalk: A small piece of chalk, approximately 1 ‘/2” square, with two tapered edges. It is used to mark
lines temporarily on different points of garment and other alteration points.
14 Tracing Wheel: It is a sharp, spike edged circular wheel with a handle, particularly used to transfer markings
from the drape to the pattern paper.
15 Yardstick: A wooden or metal ruler one yard in length (36 inches) that is marked in inches or metric terms, An
aid for laying pattern pieces on the straight grain of the fabric or for measuring hemlines.
Types of Draping techniques: - This is usually done by utilizing the fabric’s natural fall. Draping involves different
techniques such as pleating and gathering. There are six basic steps for draping.
1 Preparation
The first step is to have perfect and accurate measurements of the garment or dress form. Next, part is to mark
the center line of the dress by using a tape. This will help to keep the draping even across the dress.

2 Sketching
Preparing a sketch or illustration of your garment always helps in designing the garment. Here, the sketch will help
to understand how to best manipulate the fabric in order to get the dramatic and creative effect.

3 Placing the muslin on dress from
This is the most common and suitable fabric used in draping process; it is flexible in its thickness and volume.

114

CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 13-24