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FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Bias cut dresses

Introduction
Before the advent of bias-cut dresses, fashion garments required the use of girdles to harness the body .But
afterwards, the designers created bias –cut dresses which clung to the natural curves of the figure. As the bias
feel from the hip to the hem, flares were formed at the hemline. The beauty of the bias dress was in the graceful
swing of its hemline as the body was in motion. Bias –cut dresses are timeless in style and continue to influence
designers today.
Nature of bias –cut fabric
1 As bias stretches in length, its width decreases,
2 The lengthwise grain and cross grain run in opposite directions from the center of true bias.
3 The cross grain fibers are not twisted as tightly as the fiber of the lengthwise grain and fall more easily on the
bias.
4 Where the cross grain and lengthwise grain intersect at true bias, the cross grain side hangs longer.
5 After the bias has stretch, it does not return exactly to its original shape.The nature of bias –cut fabric poses
problems for the patternmaker. All garments cut of the bias should be test fitted to eliminate excess Created
by the stretch of the bias.
Pattern making for bias-cut garments
Designs that are cut totally on the bias cut partially on the bias are discussed in this chapter.
Foundation patterns that are chosen as a base to develop bias –cut garments are not reliable, but they do serve
the purpose of creating pattern shapes of the design. The garment is cut and joined either by using the long stitch
by machine, by basting or by pinning in preparation for hanging overnight. The bias part of the garment will stretch
beyond its original shape in the fitting to the curves of the form. The garment is chalk-marked around the form.
The instructions include two methods for managing bias and adjusting the pattern.
Two methods for reducing bias stretch
Method 1
The garment is cut from the design pattern and allowed to stretch to determine the pattern corrections. The slip
dress illustrmine the pattern corrections. The slip dress illustrates the method and management of the cutting
process.
Method 2
The stretch of the fabric is determined first and the pattern is adjusted before the design patterns are developed.
The all-in-one dress illustrates this method.
Fabric selections for bias-cut ferment
Light Weight Fabrics such as Crepe ,Flat crepe, Crepe de chine, Silk,Rayon blends etc. should be used which
can be easily and effectively used in bias cut dresses.
Design variation of bias cut dresses (Fig 1)

Fig 1

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology -Lesson 13-24