Page 138 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Grading

• Basic bodice
• Skirt
• Trouser
Grading – The process of increasing or decreasing the dimensions of a base pattern is called grading.

Grading of basic bodice
Grading is the method of enlarging or reducing a pattern of a particular size proportionately to some other size.
Starting from a pattern drafted to a particular size, you can see patterns of other sizes ( for the some other type
of figure) by grading. Commercial patterns come in the bust sizes 32”, 34”, 36”etc (successive ones differing by
2” in size). To illustrate the grading procedure, it will be supposed that 32” size pattern is available and that using
it as a basis, patterns of sizes 34”, 36”, 38” and 40” are to be prepared. Note first of all that for a 2” increase in
bust size, the increase needed in the girth or width measurement on the half pattern is one-fourth of this. i.e., ½”.
For a proportionate increase-in overall size, the pattern has to be also lengthened (by ½”. At shoulder level and
the same at the centre back). Further, for each size increase, both the neck and shoulders have to be widened by
1/8” and the armhole by 1/4”. These general observations must be kept in mind when you go through the detailed
procedures given below.(Fig 1)

Fig 1

Grading of skirt
Each size is drawn since there are two different waist and hip girth increments when grading down the skirt pattern.
The grade rules are shown in the illustration. The hip grade for the respective size is 1/4”hip girth increment
whereas the grade rule for the wait grade is ¼ waist girth increment. (Fig 2)

125

CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology -Lesson 13-24