Page 143 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

21 Smooth muslin from centre back to Princess line and pin at waist.

22 Trim excess fabric at waist from centre back to Princess line (cut straight up the grain from the princess line).
Smooth and re-pin at princess line.
23 Clip to waist right at Princess line.

Back Flare
24 Release holding pins and rotate the excess fabric in a clockwise direction dropping the fabric down to form the
flare.
25 Measure flare right at base of form. Adjust the fold until the measurement matches the measurement A-B from
the front drape (Lift the fabric higher at the waist to make the flare smaller, lower it to make the flare larger).
26 Pin at waist and trim excess fabric at waist from princess line to side seam, clip seam.
Back Ease

27 Pin a 1/4” (total) ease tuck at waist.
28 Clip to waist and re-pin side seam.
29 Smooth fabric down the side seam. Pin the fabric to the to side seam right at the base of the form.
Mark Back Muslin
30 Mark centre back and dot waist.

31 Mark waist at side seam.
Back Side Seam
32 Pencil rub side seam.
33 Cross mark at side base of form.
34 Mark A-B measurement straight out from this mark.

35 Trim side seam.
Pin Test
36 Fold the side seam of the front muslin from side waist mark to side flare measurement. Crease.
37 Pin front to back at waist, pin should be perpendicular to the folded seam. Do not pin to form.
38 Pin at flare base and continue to pin up entire side seam, keeping all pins perpendicular to the seam.

Hem
39 You can mark the hem either at the bottom of the form or at one of the wires of the cage on the bottom of the
form. Mark the hem at Canter Back and canter front.

40 Smooth the side seam down the form and mark hem at side.
41 Smooth each section of skirt straight down from the waist to mark the hem at two or three locations in the back
panel.
42 Repeat on front panel and trim muslin to within 11/2” of marked hem. Take the muslin off the form and unpin
the side seam. Balance the side seam, then re-pin the muslin to pin test the drape.
Finished Drape
43 Side view of finished drape. The side seam should hang straight, perpendicular to the floor.

44 Back view of finished drape. The centre back fold should hang straight.
45 Front view of finished drape. The canter front should hang straight.

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology -Lesson 13-24