Page 142 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

• Centre Front Neck Dart

• Straight Side Seam Dart
• Shoulder Tip
• Mid-Neck Dart
• Centre Front Waist Dart
Draping method

It is considered an important method of pattern making and manipulation in fashion designing. Fashion Draping is
the process of positioning and pinning fabric on a standard size dress form to Develop the structure of a garment
design. A dress can be draped using a design sketch as a basis, or a fashion designer can play with the Way
fabric falls to create new designs at the start of the dress design process. After draping, the toile fabric is removed
from the dress form which was used to create the Sewing draped pattern for making fashionable dress to suit an
individual. Draping is done with the help of muslin cloth. The techniques for draping fabric require the knowledge
of the fabric’s characteristics.
Draping a Flared Skirt
Steps in draping method are as following.
Draping Front of Skirt
1 When draping skirts begin by raising the form to a convenient height. Align the cross grain of the muslin with
the Horizontal Balance Line (HBL) and pin the fold of muslin to the centre front using opposing pins. Make sure
that you have at least 5” of fabric above waistline (This fabric will be dropped down to create the flare).
2 Place a temporary holding pin at the side seam at the HBL.
3 Smooth muslin from centre front to Princess line.
4 Pin at waist. Trim excess fabric at waist from centre front to Princess line. (Cut a square of fabric away, cutting
straight up the grain from the princess line). Smooth and re-pin at princess line.
Front Flare
5 Clip to the waist right at the princess line You will drop the muslin down from this point to form the flare.
6 Release holding pins at the side.
7 Rotate the excess fabric in a counterclockwise direction dropping the fabric down to form the flare.

8 Pin at waist. Trim excess fabric at waist from Princess line to side seam, clip seam.
Front Ease:
9 Pin 1/4” (total) ease tuck at waist.
10 Clip to waist and re-pin side seam.
11 Smooth fabric down side seam. Pin to side seam at bottom of seam.
12 Mark centre front at waist.
13 Dot waist. Mark side waist.
14 Pin the flare together right at the base of the form and measure.
15 Pencil rubs the side seam.
16 Mark side seam right at form base. At base of form mark measurement-B straight out (perpendicular to the
side seam) from this mark.
17 Trim side seam
18 Once front panel is fully marked and trimmed fold it away from the side seam and pin.
Draping Back Of Skirt
19 Align the cross grain of the muslin with the Horizontal Balance Line (HBL) and pin the fold of muslin to the
centre back using opposing pins.
20 Place a temporary holding pin at side seam at the HBL.

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology -Lesson 13-24