Page 178 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

• Back: Add 1” to centre back, allowing for waist modification. Interline waist band. Buckram and curtain can be
purchased at tailor supply stores.

1 Slack foundation
Trace the basic pant foundation and modify as illustrated. The slack fits closer than the basic pant foundation by
the shortening of back crotch point. It is a flexible pant that can be designed with pleats (includes the relax fitted
jean), or without front waist pleats as a casual or dress pant. The pant can be of any length, the hemline may be
narrower or wider than the suggested measurements for style variations. Side pockets of any style can be drafted
for the foundation.
The waist band can be folded or cut in two parts. Test fit the foundation before designing from the pattern.
Front
• Measure 1/2” in at centre front and up 1/4”.

• Draw line to hip level and a curved line ending 1/4” up from crotch point.
• Mark 1/2” at side waist, and blend to hip. Trim excess.
• Use hem measurements and draw lines from hem to knee and a curved line to crotch point.
• Draw fly and trace. Draw shield on fold (a).

Back
• Reduce inseam 3/4”.
• Raise crotch level 1/4”.
• Mark back welt and far pocket.
• Shift crease line 3/8”. Draw new crease line through length of the pattern.
• Draw crotch curve to blend with hip.

• Mark hem measurements and draw lines from hem to knee.
Add a curved line to crotch point (b).
Add seams and 1 inch fold-back hem. Cut for test fit. Walk seams.

165

CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology -Lesson 13-24