Page 174 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Drafting of Basic Trouser Block With Variations

Objectives: At the end of this lesson, you shall be able to:
• about sizes and taking measurement of men’s wear
• drafting of Men’s Basic Shirt Block with Variations
• variation of cuffs and collars
• drafting of Basic Trouser Block.

The pant foundation is a loosely fitted pant and is drafted to the natural waist. The pant foundation is the base
for the Classic Pleated Trouser and for the draft of the Slack foundation. The CF waist depth is marked in step 3.
Trace the pant foundation for creating designs. Read Chapter 26 for greater pant understanding.
Measurements needed: Use personal or chart measurements: Place in the spaces.
A–B Pant length _________.
A–C Crotch depth, plus 3/4” _________.
Tailors refer to depth as the rise.

C–D Hip depth: one-third of C–A. C–E Knee depth: one half of C–B, minus 1 1/2” to 2”.
Square out from A, D, C, E, B.
D–F Back hip arc, plus 1/4” _________.
C–G and A–H D–F. Connect G to H.

G–X Half of G–H.
D–J Front hip arc, plus 1/4” _________.
C–K and A–L D–J. Connect K with L.
K–X Half of K–L.
H–M Mark in 3/4” and up 3/4”. M–N Back: Waist arc, plus 1” includes 1 dart and 1/4” ease.

L–O Front: Waist arc, plus 1 1/4” includes 2 darts and 1/4” ease.
Mark Dart Legs and Intake. (Fig 1)

Fig 1

H–P One-half of M–N, plus 1/2”. Mark dart intake; square down 3 1/2” from centre.
L–Q One-third of L–O. Mark dart Q, space 1 1/4” and mark second dart. Square down 3” from centres. (Fig 2)

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology -Lesson 13-24