Page 171 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Fig 20

Undercollar
The undercollar pattern is made shorter in width than the upper collar. Two types are given to prevent the
undercollar from rolling out beyond the stitch line. The undercollar is drafted from the upper collar. (The broken
line in the illustrations indicates the original collar.) The undercollar should be notched 1/4 inch out from each side
of the centre back at the neckline edge. The following instructions apply to the development of all undercollars.

• Trace the upper collar.
• Trim 1/8 inch and more for bulky fabrics. Square a short line at the centre back and gradually draw the line to
zero at the collar point. (Fig 21)

Fig 21

On collars with an uneven style line, trim the excess from the neckline edge of the collar. Follow the same
instructions as given in Figure 4.( Fig 22)

Fig 22

• The collar is illustrated with a centre back seam.
• The grainline can be drawn straight grain, cross- grain, or bias.( Fig 23)

Fig 23

• The collar is cut on the fold. ( Fig 24)

Fig 24

Folded Basic Collar
• Fold paper lengthwise.

• Square a guideline down from fold in the centre of paper.

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CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology -Lesson 13-24