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FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

Module 2: Surface Embellishment Technique

LESSON 4 : Tie and Dye

Objectives

At the end of this lesson, you shall be able to
• introduction & types of tie & dye process
• material and equipment needed for tie & dyeing
• tie & dye techniques

Introduction of tie & dye
Tie-dye is a term used to describe a number of resists dyeing techniques. The process typically consists of
folding, twisting, pleating, or crumpling fabric or a garment, before binding with string or rubber bands, followed
by the application of dye or dyes parts. The areas that are tied remain undyed, resulting in beautiful patterns. This
craft is one of the oldest in the world for making colored designs on a fabric. Its definite origin is unknown, but the
earliest information of this craft can be achieved from books and other records of the 6th century AD which are
to be found in the East, particularly in China, India, Japan and Indonesia. Records also say that this craft was in
existence in South America and Africa during the 5th century. Europe has only recently discovered the creative
possibilities of tie and dye.
Types of tie & dye
1 Bandhani: The term ‘BANDHANI’ means tying up.Bandhani is a type of tie-dye textile decorated by plucking
the cloth with the fingernails into many tiny bindings that form a figurative design. The term bandhani is derived
from the Sanskrit verbal root bandh (“to bind, to tie”). Today most Bandhani making centers are situated in
Gujarat, Rajasthan, Sindh, Punjab region and in Tamil Nadu where it’s known as Sungudi.
2 Shibori: The word shibori comes from the Japanese verb root “shiboru”, meaning “to wring squeeze, press.
Shibori is a Japanese manual resist dyeing technique, which produces pattern on fabric
3 Jumputan: It is a resist tie-dyeing process known and used in Sumatra and java. In Sumatra. Jumputan is
known by name ‘pelangi’ which translates as rainbow. in java this Jumputan is called kain Kembangan or
flower cloth because it would be dyed in the colors of flowers.
Materials & Equipment needed for Tie & Dyeing
1 Fabric
• It must be made of Natural fibers as they and hold the dye well.
• Cotton (100%), linen, rayon, muslin, organdie, voile and silk are examples.
2 Fabric dyes: Several brands are available—RIT, Dylan etc.
• Hot or cold water dye may be used.
3 Fixative: A chemical added to the brighter and to fasten the colour into the fabric.
4 Pot: Used for heating water to dilute the dye when using hot water dyes.
5 String/Rubberbands: To tie up the fabric you will be dyeing.
6 Scissors: For cutting fabric, string /rubber bands.
7 Rubber gloves- To protect your hands from the dye.
8 Plastic basin- To mix dye bath and soak the fabric in when dyeing.
Tie & dye techniques
1 Binding (Circles)
• Lay the fabric flat.
• Gather up a small area to be tied off (with or without stones inside; other objects such as shells, marbles,
bottle covers etc. may be used also).

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