Page 80 - CITS - Fashion Design Technology - Trade Theory

FASHION DESIGN & TECHNOLOGY - CITS

3 Batik Lukis(Hand Drawn Batik)
Also known as Batik Canting, Hand drawn batik is where the hot wax is used in a pen-like tool of brass called
canting, is drawn into the fabric with a desired pattern. The artist must have a steady hand, as one mistake will be
very difficult to remove. After the pattern is drawn and the wax has dried, the artist then colours in.
Tools & equipment

Canting: It is a beautiful Javanese tool for applying wax to fabrics when making batik. They have a long handle
and a copper or brass pot that holds out molten wax. It is a small cup-shaped tool with a handle set at right angles
to the foot on one side and a nice spiral arrangement on the other.
Electric Batik Pens: Batik Pen melts candles, crayons, batik wax, and paraffin to form a controlled thin or thin
line. When the tool is placing at an angle, there are no drops of melted wax. Its heats up quickly and maintain an
even more melting temperature. There are many types of pans, such as batik funnel pans and batik wax pans.
Wooden blocks: Various craftsmen hand-carve these teak logs. These range from four inches to five or six
inches in size. On the back of each block, there is a wooden handle to hold the craftsman in place.
Dye tubs: An excellent craft to use for a dye bath is one of the chiefs for successful dyeing. If one is available,
the best thing to use is a seamless copper tube.
Raw material used

1 Cotton or silk cloth is used for batik
(Synthetic materials are generally not used).
2 Paraffin wax is used in the process.
3 Dyes –Naphtali, Direct and Vat dyeing process
4 Firewood and kerosene for heating the wax

Procedure of batik
Step 1: Cotton fabric is bleached (with bleaching powder and water) and kept overnight fir whiteness. The process
is done by machine or manually.

Step 2: Wax printing is done either with the hand, using a brush or with the blocks the table on which printing
is done is kept cool with send and water so that the wax does not paraffin wax is melted and kept on the stove.
Step 3: After the initial printing, the fabric is dipped in a color fixer.
Step 4: The fabric is then dipped in napthol dye for10-15 minutes

Step5: If only a single colour is required, then after this the cloth can be dipped in hot water so that the wax comes
off and one gets the required pattern and colour.
Step 6 If any white spots are left and doesn’t want that, then the fabric could be dipped once more in any direct
dye (say yellow). This process is called topping.
Final sample of batik

67
CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 4 CITS : Apparel - Fashion Design & Technology - Lesson 4